Prime Cuts

The management contends that stone-cooking a steak requires no fat. And since the filet mignon, $25, and the ostrich loin, $28, (yes, ostrich), aren't fatty to begin, cooking tableside is fat-free. But if you order the flavorful ribeye ("cowboy steak" on the menu), expect to end up with grease on your shirt. Push the platter away from you a little when it arrives and you should be OK.

Romancing the stone is fun, but once is enough. Next time, I'm roaming on the other side of the menu and might opt for the veal chop stuffed with chopped mushrooms and Gorgonzola cheese, which my tablemate ordered and I sampled. Superb. Other tempting selections include lobster ravioli, roasted duck, double lamp chops ($30), porcini fettuccini or grilled shrimp. Appetizers include some of the usual suspects such as shrimp cocktail ($9), but I'd advise trying the tuna ceviche ($10) attractively presented in a martini glass, or the BBQ duck spring roll, a wonderful combination of Asian flavors and smooth and crunchy textures ($8). The appetizers are generous enough to share.

The wine list features about 100 selections. You'll recognize most of the names, and the prices range from $21 to about $80 a bottle. We chose a 1996 Vina Segui, reserve from Chile that was new to us. At $36, it turned out to be a good buy and perfectly acceptable. The wine glasses at Tetley's are a 22-ounce size, plenty large for swirling your reds.

The attentive waitstaff, in casual blue logo polo shirts and khaki trousers, provide lots of help with the stone cooking. They change out the silverware between courses (I appreciate that), remove crumbs and know a lot about what executive chef Harold Balink is whipping up in the open kitchen. The 30-year-old chef composed the menu and has an impressive history for one so young. A graduate of Johnson & Wales, he also holds a degree in hotel/restaurant management from Boston University. He's been the executive chef at South Seas Plantation in Captiva and at the swanky Ocean Reef in Key Largo.

Desserts at Tetley's are presented on a tray. You'll spot the ubiquitous key lime pie and crème brûlée. But a standout is a kind of pâté made with walnuts and Gorgonzola. Rich but not sweet, it's big enough to share and goes down nicely with a glass of port. The port is $9 a glass.

Tetley's Steak & Stone is a great place to take visitors, because the food is first rate and stone cooking adds a bit of adventure. But you can also return and enjoy it as an upscale neighborhood café. It's comfortable, the service is up to standards, and the Harold Balink's cosmopolitan menu is varied enough to keep regulars coming back for delicious surprises that don't include hot rocks.

Tetley's Steak & Stone, 1113 Estero Boulevard, Fort Myers Beach. 463-1686. Dinner: Tuesday-Sunday, 5-10 p.m. Brunch: Sunday 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Credit cards. Easy parking in a garage or lot in back of the restaurant. Reservations suggested during season.