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By: Marsha Fottler
Cuisine veterans dive into two creative bistros with watery ways.
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Desserts are outrageous-mile high, rich and plenty generous enough to split two or four ways. The signature dessert is cake, either pound or chiffon, that is tarted up to become orange crush, red velvet, rum and more. Because this is Florida, there's key lime pie on the menu, too.
The wine list, under the direction of Steve Cearley, is a work in progress. Currently, it's mostly American, with only a modest markup. We were pleased with a David Bruce Pinot Noir at $34, which complemented the beef, pork, tuna and shellfish that we sampled. Katie Gardenia's Kitchen has a retail wine license and will soon be selling wine separately from the dinner menu. The restaurant also intends to offer a series of multi-course wine dinners in the 50-seat Orchid Room, which can be closed off for private parties. The first should take place this summer. Mermaid costume optional, although Gardenia will probably wear one.
Katie Gardenia's Kitchen
2055 Periwinkle Way, Sanibel Island. 472-1242. Lunch: 10 a.m.-3 p.m. daily. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. daily. Reservations suggested. Credit cards. Easy parking.
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