Rocket Science

I enjoy this place in Bell Tower Shops, not only for the kitsch (which is brilliantly conjured) but for the authenticity and tastiness of the food. Johnny Rockets makes a fine hamburger (about 10 varieties) and the fries are exemplary-long, medium-plump and brought to the table hotter than hot for $1.79. There's a ketchup bottle already on the table, but the young server brings you more, the blobs of bright red organized on a small square cardboard plate into a smiley face. Order a Coke for$1.59, , and for 29 cents extra you can have it infused with a shot of cherry, chocolate or vanilla. There are some concessions to modern times and health concerns. You may substitute ground turkey for the hand-pressed and grilled ground beef patty, or you can order a vegetarian burger for $4.25.

A Johnny Rockets signature burger comes with relish, pickle, chopped raw onion, lettuce, tomato and a generous smear of both mayonnaise and mustard. , and costs $3.99. There's a metal dispenser of those thin, food-industry, practically useless napkins at every booth, and you'll need a lot of them.

If you're in the mood for a more upmarket burger, venture into St. Louis Burger territory, where the cook adds bacon, Swiss cheese and grilled onion to the patty. There are about a half dozen of these gourmet specialty burgers. including a Rocket Double that promises to "send your taste buds into orbit." I'll save that for next time. The kitchen also dishes out sides of fried onion rings, chili and a range of sandwiches from BLT to grilled ham and cheese. For dessert, try apple pie ($1.99) or the traditional soda fountain hot fudge sundae for $3.29. The fountain counter is a spacious U-shaped affair with a view to the grill that is crowned by a handsome quilted aluminum range hood. Milk shakes, sodas and malted milks are $4.29.

The malt-shop theme extends to the teenage servers, who wear vintage white soda-jerk uniforms complete with boat-shaped caps. These affable (and efficient) kids must surely be in music nostalgia hell all day as they listen to the Everly Brothers blast "Wake Up Little Susie" or The Chiffons whine their way through "One Fine Day." But if they're desperate for a jolt of rap, they don't show it. They're as pleasantville and as cute as all the counter help in the old movie fantasies that Johnny Rockets so successfully captures in this casual shopping mall eatery.

Johnny Rockets

13499 Cleveland Ave., Bell Tower Shops, Fort Myers. 415-1920. Daily 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. and Sunday 11 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Credit cards. Mall lot parking.

The owners of the new Snug Harbor Waterfront Restaurant can take a bow. The multi-level building, which seamlessly blends indoor and outdoor eating areas, is a terrific space. Situated almost under the bridge to Fort Myers Beach, this harbor eatery is spacious, well designed, modern and comfortable. The complex even includes a parking lot, a charming pergola of protected benches with a view to the harbor, and a lovely palm court, the centerpiece of which is a reflecting pool with dancing waters. There are as many places for outdoor dining and relaxation as there are indoor tables and banquettes. And the indoor spaces are grouped near huge windows so that a view to Matanzas Pass and the Back Bay is always part of a guest's restaurant experience.

The décor is a simple marine-inspired theme using traditional navy and white and plenty of fish paintings and prints on the walls. Around the circular downstairs bar is a whimsical wall-mounted fishing village metal sculpture that is definitely worth close inspection. But the main attraction inside Snug Harbor is a large (and tall) mural of undersea life that starts near the entrance of the restaurant, embraces the elevator and curls up the staircase to the second-floor bar, called Chillers. This playful painted scene is fun and takes on additional charm if you put on 3-D eyeglasses you'll find at the hostess station. Wear your glasses as you walk up and you'll see the sea critters pop out to greet you. Chillers is but one of three bars at Snug Harbor, each with its own atmosphere. The spirits menu, separate from the food menu, is extensive. Drinks include many martinis, chillers and shots as well as frozen favorites like margaritas and piña coladas at about $6. And there are plenty of umbrella-fancy things like a Woo-Woo. This is peach schnapps, vodka and cranberry juice. A Toasted Almond could work as dessert because its luscious components are Kahlua, amaretto and cream.

By comparison, the wine menu is skimpy. Select 12 wines by the glass or pick bottles that range from $15 to $125, with most settling in the $25 to$30 range. Expect Sutter Home, Kendall-Jackson, Glen Ellen, a few Italians and one or two Australian choices.Maybe management figures the average Snug Harbor patron wants a Woo Woo. The upstairs bar's deck seems the most popular because you can smoke out there, be as loud as you want, and take in great water views day or night. The interior bar features televisions and live entertainment. Both areas offer a happy hour raw bar and a late-night menu.

The food at Snug Harbor is wide-ranging, but emphasizes fresh seafood, from oysters and clams to Gulf shrimp, grouper, Florida lobster tails, snow crab legs, scallops, salmon, and more. Grouper is prepared six different ways (not counting the sandwich varieties) and most of the preparations are market price. On our night that was about $16. Dinners come with freshly baked bread, choice of salad, slaw or soup, fresh vegetable and potato or rice. If you're fond of sweet potatoes, order them mashed. They're light and sweet, with a hint of cinnamon and nutmeg. Really tasty. The restaurant also offers a "you catch it, we'll cook it" option for anyone who's had a productive day with a fishing pole. Chef will pair your catch with side dishes and serve it up for $9.95.

Landlubbers luck out with 10 veal and chicken dishes as well as prime rib and steaks. The prime rib is a house specialty in either a 10-ounce ($15.95) or a 14-ounce cut. It's juicy and flavorful, but don't salt the meat until you taste it first because it's seasoned already. Plenty of au jus for bread dipping and the requisite horseradish on the side. Additionally there are pastas (mostly seafood enriched), jumbo meal-sized salads, sandwich baskets, and crowd-pleasing appetizers such as the bloomin' onion, spinach/artichoke dip, chicken fingers or spicy wings and stuffed mushrooms.

Desserts are the usual key lime pie and a few other routine specials. I don't know how anyone would have room since the entrée portions are more than generous. The food at Snug Harbor isn't gourmet by a long shot. No fusion, no fuss, nothing terribly fancy and the presentation is straightforward. Sides come in side dishes. For the most part, Snug Harbor food is satisfying regional seafood cooking served by a convivial waitstaff in a family-friendly atmosphere that proclaims "laid-back vacation in paradise" no matter what time of year it is.

Snug Harbor Waterfront Restaurant

645 Old San Carlos Blvd., Fort Myers Beach. 463-4343. Lunch: daily from 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Dinner: daily from 4 p.m.- closing (early bird, 4-5:30 p.m.). Reservations: "call ahead wait list," 463-8077. Credit cards. Parking in private restaurant lot.

A curving stone path cuts through the pristine wood plank floor at Aya, a small Japanese restaurant that is so rustically serene and so stunningthat you would never know it sits in a Publix Market plaza right next door to a smoke shop. Aya is like a Japanese teahouse in the middle of a Japanese garden, and it is a transporting experience.

A bamboo rock garden rims the perimeter of the space, screening the mundane view outside while you sit at rough-hewn tables with straight-back chairs made comfortable with brightly patterned cushions. The earthenware pottery on the table is impeccably lovely and textural. Hot tea is served not in cups, but in oversized gray-green pottery mugs without handles. There's music in the background and you have a view of the sushi bar and the open kitchen. The pace at Aya is slow and graceful, and the food you'll be served is composed as individual pieces of Asian art. Almost a shame to eat the sushi or sashimi, teriyaki, tempura or stir-fry dishes; but, of course, that's why you're here.