At night at Blu Sushi, the Japanese food, from miso soup and seaweed salad to sushi, sashimi, and makisushi rolls, is first-rate, and the chefs on display who slice, spin and arrange these bite-size seafood delicacies on Asian platters are creative and fun to watch, like performance art. But, having praised the quality of the cuisine and its ingenious presentation, I caution you, Blu Sushi is not about food.

This hip, trendy, thoroughly modern, upmarket hangout is all about making the scene, and to the young professionals who meet and greet friends at the curvy bar or crowd around the modernistic square tables bathed in silvery blue light, the resulting noise level is just one big, happy buzz.

These young people are here to forge romantic connections and to kick back and sip fancy drinks. Sushi is an ideal (albeit expensive) snack food accompaniment to liquor consumption. You can use your fingers or play with chopsticks, you don't really have to think about what you're eating, and the pretty platters are naturally meant for sharing. Sushi is healthy and relatively low in calories. With so many menu selections, you could challenge your palate anew with each visit, and the chefs will even make a signature roll if you want to suggest ingredients. Many of the menu items, such as the Blu Special, Volcano, Hurricane or Green Dragon rolls, are made with cooked seafood, so avoiding raw fish is not a problem at this Japanese restaurant.

Most sushi is light enough so that it doesn't interfere with consuming generous quantities of specialty drinks. Blu Sushi specializes in liquor you won't find at other places. How about Asian pear sake? The house sake is served warm and the Napa is a rare sake made from koji-rice. A collector's first-edition bottle is $50. That would impress a date. Wines, cocktails, imported beers-it's all here. So popular is the drink menu that the management asks non-dining guests to congregate with their martinis or mojitos at the bar or on the patio.

The waitstaff, mostly alpha girls with abundant hair, black crop tops and low-slung body-hugging slacks, are quick (sneakers) and efficient, with full knowledge of the menu. But you'll have to ask for water and request Western silverware should you sink to the humiliation of needing a fork.

If you're young and crave a casual good time in a genuinely hip atmosphere, Blu Sushi is your thing. It's an excellent choice for a first date. The noise level is so high that you'll hardly be able to hear each other talk, thus eliminating the need to demonstrate you're a witty conversationalist. Instead, you'll be able to feel cool, look good, eat well and sample one of eight different kinds of sakes. Not a bad way to end the day or begin a relationship.

Blu Sushi 13451 McGregor Blvd., Fort Myers. 489-1500. Lunch: daily from 11 a.m.-2p.m. Dinner: daily from 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Credit cards. Parking provided. Wheelchair accessible.

Tarpon bay is the place for fresh seafood (local and global), whether you're staying at the Hyatt Regency Coconut Point Resort & Spa or if you're driving to the hotel-vacation condo complex specifically for a restaurant escapade. More casual than Tanglewood (see the April 2003 Gulfshore Life), which is located inside the Hyatt and focuses primarily on meaty meals in a sophisticated setting, Tarpon Bay is unquestionably family friendly, nestled as it is near the swimming pools, fountains, waterfalls, lagoons and other dramatic water features that characterize this resort.

The rambling Tarpon Bay building, with its whitewashed, paneled walls, aims for the ambience of a comfortable old seaside cottage that's been in the family for generations. The things you see on the walls look as though they've been artlessly accumulated over time, and most have a tropical reference. Notice the retro salt and pepper shakers. One is a hibiscus and the other a bird-of-paradise. I wonder how many disappear. The wait staff wear colorful island shirts, and the table tops are mosaics in bright colors.

Food comes to the table in colorful, lavish presentations meant to amuse tourists and astonish children. And Tarpon Bay has an extensive bill of fare for little ones, including the standbys: macaroni and cheese, chicken nuggets, peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwiches. If it's not on the menu, the kitchen, under the direction of chef Thom Martin, will try to fulfill the culinary wishes of tykes.

The semi-open kitchen contributes to a friendly bustle and the fancy drink menu puts grownups in a laid-back, festive mood. Another refreshing adult feature: the raw bar. Some people never get past this part of the meal; they just make a full eating experience of conch, salmon, shrimp or tuna ceviche served, if you choose, with a side of fresh oysters.

Fish and shellfish from all over the world are flown in daily for the cooks at Tarpon Bay, so you can be sure your Australian sea bass is as new as if you were eating it in Australia. You can trust the sushi-grade tuna. The pairings of seafood and sides are intriguing. Mahi mahi comes with soba noodles. Sea bass is paired with purple potatoes. A grouper dish combines strawberries and sugar-snap peas.

The most popular item on the menu is the whole, crispy fried snapper served with a ginger sauce. This really is the whole fish and ranges from three to five pounds. Its presentation is a showstopper. For the seafood-challenged, the Tarpon Bay menu lists two filet dinners (dry-aged steak) and a juicy Muscovy duck. Entrées average $25. The wine list is constructed to showcase seafood, and you can find a respectable bottle for about $30.

Tarpon Bay believes in a big finish and offers enticing and original deserts, such as white chocolate crème brûlée with orange essence for custard lovers. The stuffed, poached pear with red-wine sauce is definitely a grown-up choice, as is the banana walnut nougat glacé with caramel sauce. If you're on vacation, if you live here year-round or if you're a seasonal resident, add Tarpon Bay to your list of reliable places to enjoy fresh seafood in a tropically relaxed environment. It's a winner.

Tarpon Bay Hyatt Regency Coconut Point Resort & Spa, 5001 Coconut Point Road, Bonita Springs. 444-1234. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m daily. Dinner: Tuesday-Sunday, 5:30-10 p.m. Reservations suggested. Valet parking. Credit cards.