Style Secrets

Shopping for the essentials of a wardrobe can be challenging even to the savviest fashionista. Should you stay with the tried-and-true classics, or boldly blaze new tailoring trails? To help guide readers through this daunting task, we spoke with a dozen local experts, from Naples to Fort Myers, to learn what's now and what's forever in Gulfshore fashion.

Rings

Get it right-the right-hand ring now has the upper hand. Heather Klein, diamond consultant at the Southwest Florida Diamond District in Bonita Springs, puts it this way: "Your left hand loves the candlelight. Your right hand loves the spotlight." And what are women leaning toward for the left? Diamonds, of course, with at least 20 points surrounded by clusters of smaller stones. Fancy and rare, yellow diamonds are proving especially popular, Klein says.

The metals holding these precious gems are most often platinum or white gold-even with yellow diamonds. White metals are especially flattering to Floridians who cultivate glowing tans, Klein says.

Even with the right diamond and the right metal, there are pitfalls to avoid when it comes to the setting. Ladies with long, slender fingers should look for settings that emphasize north-south-that is, an arrangement of stones that runs predominantly with the finger, rather than across. Such a style will draw attention to those lovely digits. Women with petite hands should look for a narrower setting, though Klein says it's all a matter of preference.

Others who work with jewelry, such as Chloe Levinson of The Lanes Diamonds & Tiaras in Bonita Springs, say that Asscher-cut diamonds-antiquey-looking, slightly rounded squares that look simple and elegant-are making a big comeback, thanks in part to style-setter Carrie Bradshaw of Sex and the City. "It's probably our most popular cut," Levinson says. "You can wear a four- or five-carat round diamond, and it looks large. The Asscher doesn't look gaudy."

Gowns

Jackie Marin Chapuis, president of JIKI Monte Carlo Creations, which has a boutique in Bayfront Place in Naples, says that when it comes to evening gowns, lace has found its place again for nights of distinctive glamour. Combined with crepe jersey, frilly accents offer just the right contrast to make the wearer the belle of the ball.

"The combination of fabrics being used to make the spring collection is exciting," Chapuis says. This designer for Princess Stephanie and Princess Caroline of Monaco leans toward a fitted silhouette that flatters the feminine form. Although attention-getting red remains in demand, colors are trending toward the pastel palette, with blues and greens on the rise.

When it comes to classics, though, a woman can't go wrong with basic black, which suits every occasion and lends itself to myriad accessories. Detailing such as rhinestones or ruffles adds extra eye appeal.

Strapless and spaghetti-strap styles are timeless, transcending the trendiness of up-and-down sleeve lengths. Now that women are taking better care of themselves, they can continue to show off their shoulders with confidence or incorporate the added insurance that a shawl or silk chiffon camisole affords. As for length, extremes reign. Gowns cascading to the foot and cocktail dresses barely brushing the knee are both the norm. Middle-of-the-road tea-lengths are on the outs.

For those who don't do more than four or five gown-worthy galas a season, Chapuis recommends maximizing impact with something spectacular-detailing or flashy accessories guaranteed to turn heads. "Have something to remember those evenings-go more spectacular," she says. Expect to spend at least $1,500 on that extra-special gown.

Shoes

Savvy shoppers can see right through the newest thing in shoes: Lucite. Strappy sandals trimmed in clear plastic blend right in with the skin-and any color of outfit or time of year. The best come from Manolo Blahnik, says Marissa Hartington, owner of Marissa Collections on Third Street South in Naples. An acknowledged shoe fetishist, she says her favorite pair of Blahniks features clear plastic straps that crisscross in front on a powdered-nude color heel. "It looks like you're wearing nothing on your feet and makes your legs look long," she says. "They're very delicate, very feminine."

Ask her about the classics, though, and she replies that shoe styles flow with the winds of fashion and reflect the individual personality of the wearer. "Every season, what's classic is different," she says. "A classic shoe is one that doesn't date itself or the woman wearing it. No weird toes, no weird heels. A pump, a mule, a sling, a sandal-but one that stands the test of time."

Still, mules and slings could constitute standard footwear in Florida, and the prevalence of pastel fashions in the subtropics often precludes black. "Black is not in style right now unless it's with a little black dress," Harting-ton says. A mule dressed up with a bit of embroidery can coordinate with anything, she says.

"Any heel is right if you wear it with the right kind of pant," Hartington adds. With higher heels-anywhere from two to three inches-wear boot-cut pants; save the skinnier silhouette for those low-rising mules.

Tiaras

Every woman deserves to be treated like a queen on her wedding day, says Levinson of The Lanes Diamonds & Tiaras, and more brides are choosing to look like one, too. Handmade on gold wire and encrusted with Swarovski and pearls or even uncut amethysts, tiaras run from $200 into the thousands. "They are the thing to be wearing for weddings," says Levinson. "They're associated with royalty and make women feel special."

Glitzy balls and other dress-up occasions also make perfect excuses to add the crowning touch to an ensemble. "A lot of socialites who've got all the jewelry in the world buy tiaras to stand out in the crowd," Levinson says. "You can have fun with them."

When shopping, approach a tiara as you would a diamond. Look at light refraction-you want to create a stunning visual effect. If the nuptials are outdoors or even on the beach, consider the Daisy Collection of tiaras, resembling a wreath of flowers.

Is it gilding the lily to wear a veil on top of a tiara? No, but brides might want to stick with a half-veil, Levinson says. A lot depends on personal taste and the level of formality of the ceremony. A longer veil is more formal, just as a longer gown is.

Men's Suits

Rob Carvell, partner in Brodeur Carvell Fine Menswear in south Fort Myers, says when it comes to men's suits, black and blue remain versatile, classic and essential. Designers may occasionally toy with silhouettes and venting shapes, but shoppers' choices may come down to one question: two buttons or three?

The latter appears more popular at the moment, says Carvell.

Is the double-breasted look a no-no? It accounts for just a sliver of sales now, but look for it to make a comeback someday, Carvell says.

When it comes to the fabric, wool is still the standard, though it's undergone a significant transformation in the past 10 years. Tighter weaves and thread widths make for a lighter fabric. "It's almost like silk," Carvell says.

The real news for men is shirts. Colors and cuffs are key interests today; we're talking bold and French, respectively. Purple's popular now, Carvell says, and it works with that classic black or blue suit as well as a more casual tan sports jacket. It's one of the few areas where men can add individual flair to an ensemble, and some are tucking newly trendy pocket squares in coordinating colors into their jacket pockets.

Women's Suits

It's all in the details when it comes to what's new in women's suits-oversized cuffs, unusual closures, waistband trims, mesh vents under the arms. "So many suits have great details," says Jennifer Williams, owner of Jennifer's in Fort Myers. "There's a lot more flair."

That's good news for anyone looking to add some panache to the classic black suit, the staple of the business-minded woman. They can never go wrong with a classic blazer worn with knee-length, straight skirt or trousers. It's right every time of year and even more comfortable and carefree now that light, wrinkle-free microfibers have found their way into the wardrobe. Williams especially likes the contemporary looks of Yansi Fugel. "I took one on a 20-hour trip and wore it, and it looked great," she says.

With proper care-dry-clean all the pieces at once-and standard wear-as in not every day-a good suit can last about five years.

For a more casual approach, try an unstructured jacket with a flared pant or a shorter skirt, Williams says. Women have more choices in Florida because they can get away with more casual looks-eschewing the more formal jacket. "If you go downtown you can see attorneys wearing a skirt and sweater set," she says. "It's much more relaxed here."

Purses

Purses are loosening up this season, transitioning between tailored lines and softer, slouchier, Bohemian looks. It's all about femininity, says Karen Lopez, manager of Coplon's in Naples. "I'm seeing beautiful beaded bags reminiscent of vintage but with modern style," she says. "There are gorgeous animal skins dyed bold colors." Designers such as Nancy Gonzalez are putting a new spin on crocodile skin, with colors like coral, emerald and orange at prices ranging from $400 to $1,000. For a more whimsical approach, Lulu Guinness bags that play with playing card and slot-machine motifs have been spotted on the arms of celebrity clients like Madonna, Elizabeth Hurley and Katie Couric. The $500 bags are fun and functional.

Judith Lieber's Swarovski-studded minaudières are all crafted by hand, as are her leather and fabric versions, and inspire shoppers to collect the playful shapes-a butterfly, a koala, a polar bear.

Handbags, like shoes, are one of those accessories that some women just love to collect. "I know women with whole rooms dedicated to handbags," Lopez says. By varying their bags, she says, they can add "a funky edge" to even a simple black dress.

Perfume

Ask Marie-Christine Elden of La Femme Perfumery in Naples to name a classic scent that never goes out of style and she's hard-pressed to stop at just a few. But ask her what's new and exciting, and one name comes to her lips: Roberto Cavalli. "It's hip, on the edge. The bottle is gorgeous, tall and slim with a serpent wrapped around it," she says. But what about the scent? "When it's first put on, it's like a floral, but all of a sudden it dissipates and then you get a little spice," she says.

That's a clue to the best way to tell if a perfume is right for you: Wait 10 to 15 minutes for the scent to settle before you decide whether to buy.

Elden's excitement says a lot about the state of the perfume industry. It doesn't fly with the fashions from season to season. Her old standbys have been around for decades: Chanel No. 5 and Shalimar have been enticing men and women since the 1920s, and Bal à Versailles since 1962. "Chanel No. 5 is still in style-more than ever," she says. "A lot of young ladies want to wear it." And Shalimar? "I don't think it will ever die." In fact, the house of Guerlain is introducing Shalimar Light, a citrusy daytime version of the traditionally floral evening scent. Although perfumes react differently depending upon individual body chemistry, those citrusy scents and floral notes are a natural for Southwest Florida's lush environment. The high humidity here means that women should consider layering: Apply bath or body lotion before perfume so the scent has something to grab onto and lasts longer, Elden suggests. Otherwise, it gets absorbed in the skin and evaporates quickly.

To help keep perfumes from spoiling, she suggests storing them in the refrigerator-especially if you leave them behind when you head back up North. That way, they can last two to three years.

Watches

Diamonds are a watch-wearer's best friend these days. The precious gems are dominating dials, bezels and bracelets, according to Kathy Bigham of Bigham Jewelers in Naples. "We've sold more this year than ever," she says. Also new this season is the concept of changing bands to match a lady's outfit. David Yurman is showing removable straps in hues such as red, blue and black so a woman can wear the same timepiece with a variety of ensembles. Watches are bigger these days, too, blurring the line between feminine and masculine styles, Bigham says. "Some look like men's watches," she says.

For either gender, Rolex is timeless. They haven't changed much over the years and remain popular for sporty and dressy occasions. Particularly hot right now is the men's 50th anniversary model of the Submariner, with an emerald-green bezel, that sells for about $4,900. "It's very sought-after," Bigham says. Entry-level Rolexes run from $2,000 for women to $3,000 for men.

What determines the quality of a watch? The movement inside. Most Rolexes, for example, are made with Oyster Perpetual, a securely sealed, continuous motion works that never needs winding. Such pieces are always a good investment, Bigham says, since they come with heirloom appeal: They can and should be passed on from one generation to the next.

Swimwear

The back is back in women's swimwear. Designers and shoppers are paying more attention to what's going on behind the wearer. Straps are crisscrossing in back and coming to-gether in a Y, so it almost looks like a regular tank top rather than a swimsuit, says Coni Sutter, owner of The Beach House of Naples, who has been in the business for 27 years. Her best tips for shoppers: Get the view from behind and make sure the suit stays in place when you sit down and stand up.

Sutter is especially revved up about Dolce & Gabbana's new line for the beach, which includes suits, cover-ups and skirts. "They have interesting silhouettes," she says. "It's not big on prints, but it has neat detailing and shapes."

Florida's environment favors lighter, brighter colors such as corals and pinks, although orange is hot, too, whether it's intense tangerine or soft sherbet. One color success story that surprises Sutter is taupe. "Five or eight years ago, you wouldn't have thought it would sell, but it's very good for us," she says. "It's very risky because it's close to skin tone."

As with so many other wardrobe essentials, you can never go wrong with black. Every woman should have a nice black swimsuit. In fact, every woman should have suits for every occasion-a Sunday best, a comfortable older suit, a knock-around suit for working in the garden and dipping in the hot tub. ("Never go in a hot tub in a suit you care about," Sutter says. "It boils them.") The strapless Bando style has attained classic status, so keep that in the collection, too.

As for two-piece suits, the "hipster" bottom still is hip. The low-slung look, mirroring the trend in trousers, could go out of style in the next few years, Sutter says. The waistline is creeping up, thanks to European designers.

The biggest news is the acceptance of separates. Ninety percent of two-piece suits are bought as individual pieces so a woman can purchase the best fit for top and bottom, Sutter says. Tops are softer now, less constructed, less wiry. Halters are the best seller in bikini bras. "You couldn't give them away five years ago," Sutter says.

Sunglasses

Southwest Floridians will have it made in the shade if they're wearing Kieselstein-Cords, the very latest in sunglasses. The high-end designer of jewelry, handbags and belts offers a look that seems tailor-made for the subtropics: A curling alligator accent adorns the frames of many models. "It certainly makes an impression," says Kelly Chasnov of Eyetopian Optical in Bonita Springs and south Fort Myers. "It's the piece we're most excited about." Good coverage and luxurious details-sterling silver, leather temples, say-make for a prized pair of shades.

Three or four pairs might be called for-think of sunglasses as a fashion accessory. Some are made for shopping and brunch around the pool; others for boating and similarly sporty pursuits. One sportier choice is Maui Jim, which Eyetopian is the first to offer in the United States, Chasnov says. And Jackie-O style ovals always make an elegant option.

Also keep an eye out for polarized lenses, which offer the best defense against glare-the real vision impairer in Southwest Florida. "It's always sunglass season in Florida," Chasnov says. "For overcast days, brown polarized lenses work best. For intense sun, gray lenses don't change color tones."

As for frames, let your own eye be your guide. "The idea that if you have a square face you should go with rounded frames is an old wives' tale," Chasnov says.

Lingerie

When it comes to foundation garments, the less evidence, the better. Nude hues, convertible straps and smooth finishes help keep unmentionables unnoticeable.

"A nude color in a bra or panty works best under both black and white," says Kellie Jacoby, special events manager at Saks Fifth Avenue in Naples. "The big thing is the T-shirt bra. Almost every line has a smooth-finish model that's seamless and you can wear underneath almost any top. Lacy is very pretty, but it's not smooth. It restricts what you can wear it with." Wacoal has added a new front-closing, seamless model to its line and also offers a three-way convertible that transforms over the shoulder, halter or crisscrossed in back. Chantelle also has a versatile convertible that goes from standard to strapless.

Getting down to bottoms, low-rise thongs still are popular-and not just with younger women, Jacoby says. They're following along the lines of contemporary designs in jeans.

At the end of the day, women are playing with Burberry. The company's trademark tan, black and red pattern is popular in sleepwear, as are solid pastels in pretty pinks and blues.