The Big Splurge

It's a high-speed, high-stress world out there, but it's possible to forget that when you're winding down along the Gulfshore. Maybe it's our humid, tropical air that calms the mind, opens the pores and lulls even the most frenetic visitors into a state of languid self-indulgence. Or maybe it's simply the wealth of pleasures, from ultra-luxury consumption to big expanses of sea and wilderness, that call for a heavenly dose of hedonism. With so little time, and so many ways to make the most of your time along the Gulfshore, we went in search of some ultimate Southwest Florida experiences. Money, we decided, would not be an object, since some things in life-including cherished vacation memories-truly are priceless.

The Sporting Life

There's no greater luxury than spending leisure time exploring and enjoying the great outdoors, especially when it comes with sunshine, sea views and some of the world's loveliest golf courses.

Sailing Away

If sailing's more your thing, Steve and Doris Colgate's Offshore Sailing School will have you U.S. Sailing Certified within a week. Students learn on the school's Colgate 26, the boat designed by Olympic sailor and America's Cup competitor Steve Colgate. A bareboat cruising prep course is taught on a 35-foot sailboat. "It's a serious learning experience but fun and rewarding," says Doris Colgate, who has certified many on-vacation students. "Certification makes it easy to rent a sailboat or charter all over the world. It's a skill people tell us they'll use in retirement."

Classes are held rain or shine (wind or no wind), and tuition is $1,195 for the learn-to-sail class; $1,395 for bareboat. Out-of-season students get a $200 discount. Private three-hour lessons are also available for $495. (239) 454-1700.

Lessons With Leadbetter

Golf Digest consistently ranks David Leadbetter as one of the top three golf instructors in the country-and world. And LaPlaya Beach & Golf Resort in Naples is the only U.S. resort that has him. Leadbetter, who's worked with the likes of Nick Faldo, Nick Price, Ernie Els, Justin Rose and Ty Tryon, offers private one-on-one lessons to help improve your game, from one hour to a full day of instruction. "For someone who's trying to refine their game, David's the person to do it," says LaPlaya's Sean Mullen. Filmed lessons help Leadbetter analyze your swing and create comparison to pro golfers like Tiger and the late Payne Stewart. Plus, you get a constant reminder of what you need to work on, with a DVD to take home. The academy's lessons begin at $1,000. 333 Palm River Blvd., Naples, (239) 592-1444.

Landing the Big One

Any experienced angler will tell you the fishing in these parts rivals the Keys. Because our waters are more secluded and less crowded, you'll have more opportunity to land the big one-tarpon, snook and redfish are among the favorite game fish here. You'll also discover world-class fishing for permit, the prized game fish often associated with the Keys and Belize. Landlubbers will also be happy to know that our inshore waters are usually calm.

Capt. Will Geraghty of Grand Slam Charters in Naples, whose clients include some celebrities and sports stars (he discreetly won't name names) has been fishing these waters since 1996. He knows all the hot spots for grouper and snapper and the seasonal homes of trout, king mackerel, sharks and cobia. A big-time competitive angler, Geraghty offers seagoing excursions aboard a two-person, 18-foot skiff (ideal for the more aggressive inshore fly fisherman) and a 25-foot custom Privateer that accommodates parties of up to six for inshore and offshore ventures. Capt. Geraghty also throws in a crash sightseeing course, pointing out manatees, dolphins, eagles and osprey (considered a grand slam) and will accommodate beachcombing requests along the exclusive Keewaydin Island or the back creeks of Rookery Bay. "If you don't get on a boat in Southwest Florida, you don't experience all this area has to offer in terms of ecology," he says. Anglers should bring beverage of choice and can request sandwiches catered by Fifth Avenue Deli, Wynn's Market or other local shops.

For Sanibel and Captiva visitors, Captain Gary Clark's Cape Coral-based Ultimate Charters provides at-your-door pick-up and first-rate inshore fishing in Pine Island Sound, teeming with tarpon and home of Boca Grande's world-class tarpon tournament. "Tarpon are a once-in-a-lifetime fish and rank right up there with marlin and sailfish," says Clark, who's fished with the Fonz (Henry Winkler of Happy Days fame) plus practically the whole starting lineup of the Minnesota Twins and Boston Red Sox. "Tarpon pull, jump out of the water and offer an exciting fight. I've had people fight them for more than two hours," says this captain, who also works with a local taxidermist so you can take home your trophy. Half-day (around $300) or all-day (around $600) charter excursions include license, deep-sea gear, bait and ice. Grand Slam Charters at (239) 793-0969 or Ultimate Charters at (239) 542-9315.

Serious Shopping

Tans fade; besides, they're unhealthy and so not in style. For a safer souvenir to remind you of your days in the sun, think designer gown, big bling-bling or an important piece of art.

Women's Wear

No high-fashion lover's visit to Southwest Florida is complete without a stop at Marissa Collections, the ultra-haute Third Street South dream boutique in downtown Naples. It's where resident and visiting jet setters find one- of-a-kind Manolos, as well as Jil Sander and Yves Saint Laurent-items often exclusive to Florida. Plus, Marissa has Naples' only Valentino boutique, which just opened in December, and offers in-season trunk shows that provide a limited guest list with the opportunity to be the first to see and buy the latest in designer collections.

Check out the season's must-haves-a tailored tweed jacket, fur-collared cashmere and leather satchels with heavy metal hardware-or let the skilled staff find the perfect new item for your closet.1167 Third St. S., Naples, (239) 263-4333.

And if you're looking for another ultimate shopping experience, rumor has it that the Fifth Avenue Club at the relatively small Saks Fifth Avenue at Waterside Shops is one of the top-performing Fifth Avenue Clubs in the chain. (Company officials decline to release rankings or figures.) The Fifth Avenue Club provides free personal shopping service, so whether you need a complete makeover (cosmetics to wardrobe), a resort-style party dress for an impromptu soiree or just want a golf shirt for your husband, club director Sherill Dixson and company are pleased to serve. The service includes delivery right to your hotel door and after-hour appointments served with cocktails, if you please. 5395 Tamiami Trail N., Naples, (239) 592-5900.

Gorgeous Gems

Beauty vanishes, love comes and goes, but major jewelry lasts forever. In business since 1972, Yamron Jewelers carries the top names in the jewelry world along with an array of up and comers. Company patriarch Bruce Yamron booked Anthony Nak months before the Texas duo's designs began showing up on the necks and ears of Hollywood's A-list. Right now, the store features a cushion- cut, 10.06-carat 9.87 diamond, accented by more diamonds, set in a designer platinum ring by Michael Beaudry, another Yamron discovery. Offered at $474,000, this diamond is a certain memory-maker. Three Naples locations, (800) 492-6766.

Thalheimers, another leading Southwest Florida jewelry store, also has a spectacular selection of gems and one-of-a-kind pieces. You can't go wrong thinking pink for the ultimate Florida souvenir-and the top trinket in the store, a 7.54-karat pear-shaped pink diamond by Bellataire mounted in pure platinum and set with 21 round-brilliant diamonds, (price $800,000), is definitely lord of the rings. 3200 Tamiami Trail N., (239) 261-8422.

Rare Rauschenberg

Some outstanding art is located within a few blocks of Naples' famed Fifth Avenue South and Third Avenue South, and it's also worth a drive to check out galleries in quirky Matlacha on Pine Island or exclusive Sanibel Island. But if you're looking for a true modern masterpiece, acclaimed artist Robert Rauschenberg calls the Gulfshore home, and his work can be purchased at Eckert Fine Art in downtown Naples. One of three galleries in the world supplied directly by the master and Captiva Island resident, Eckert is currently featuring the artist's 1974 Sybil, from the Hoarfrost series. Exhibited internationally including at the Guggenheim's 1997 Rauschenberg retrospective, Sybil, measuring 80 by 74.75 inches, is a solvent transfer on silk and chiffon with paper bags and rope. Works by Rauschenberg can sell in the millions, but this one is $800,000. 390 12th Ave. S., Naples, (239) 261-1100.

Incredibly Edible

Can it be a great vacation without great food? We don't think so, which is why we suggest these totally tasty treasures.

Chocolate Exposure

Chocolate maker extraordinaire Norman Love, whose confections have won rave reviews in the New York Times, will make you a chocolatier for the day in his Fort Myers chocolate factory. As an honorary chocolate maker at Norman Love Confection, you'll learn how he concocts the yummy fillings for his truffles and work-of-art sweets (Tahitian vanilla bean, chocolate key lime, roasted pineapple with crystallized ginger, to name a few) and the nuances of airbrushing or cocoa butter hand-painting for his exclusive line of handmade chocolates for Godiva. Love will furnish you with a stylish NLC uniform and hat and send you off with a one-pound box of his signature bon-bons. You'll even get a gift box to ship to a friend (if you can part with it); and, of course, you'll also be able to browse the former Ritz-Carlton corporate executive pastry chef's chocolate salon, featuring European-style pastries, confections and more-all with a chocolate theme. It's a bargain at $350 for the day.11380 Lindebaugh Blvd., Fort Myers, (239) 561-7215.

Dining Pour Deux

Private dining at the Ritz-Carlton is the pinnacle of great gastronomy, offering contemporary American cuisine with global influences and an extensive list of fine vintages. We asked the staff to help us dream up an ultra-private dinner for two. Start off by reserving the resort's 20-seat private dining room (found just off The Dining Room, Southwest Florida's only AAA Five Diamond restaurant). Begin with a French red, 1929 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, priced at $10,500, and a trio of caviar and frozen vodka, $100 per person. Savor courses infused with truffles and caviar, including Kobe beef served with baby asparagus and truffled mashed potatoes. For dessert, indulge in the chocolate passion dessert, decorated with 24k gold. It doesn't get more memorable than this. 280 Vanderbilt Beach Road, Naples, (239) 598-6644.

Cocktail Cruising

The Sweet Liberty is Naples' ultimate party boat. Available for private sunset soirees, sightseeing, shelling excursions and checking out the posh back yards of Naples' premier property along Naples Bay and in Port Royal, the 49-passenger Sweet Liberty is often booked up to six months in advance. Consider throwing a party for 30 of your family or friends while admiring some of Naples' Venetian-inspired architecture. The perfect complement: authentic Italian cuisine prepared by executive chef Alberto Varetto of Marco Ocean Beach Resort's Sale e Pepe.

For $200 per person Varetto will prepare a menu of Italian specialties and local delicacies. He suggests starting with a 10-item passed hors d'oeuvres menu (truffled paté of foie gras, tartelette of soft cheese, bruschetta with bagna cauda and legumes, and rosette of Parma prosciutto with fresh goat cheese). Also featured: a chilled seafood station with stone crab, littleneck clams and oysters; a selection of cured Italian meats; a pasta station offering fagottini of scallop and artichoke crepes, lobster consommé with quenelle of jumbo shrimp; plus carving stations and a display of Italian cheese. Each course will be paired with wines specially selected by Sale's sommelier, and handmade Italian pastries and chocolates provide the grand finale.

A four-hour dinner cruise will cost about $13,550 for 30 guests. (This includes tax, gratuity, waitstaff, chef's fee, food and a selection of nine different Italian wines.) Sweet Liberty, 330 12th Ave. S., (239) 793-3525; Sale e Pepe, (239) 393-1400.

Soothe the Spirit

Tasty adventures and tasteful acquisitions are excellent, but to totally rejuvenate yourself, take time to nourish your soul.

Sybaritic Spas

Spas have become one of the most popular resort amenities, and Southwest Florida hotels have some of the best. Here are three special treatments that regularly win rave reviews from guests.

For the perfect beach-themed indulgence, try the Spa at the Ritz-Carlton's signature Champagne of the Sea experience (starting at $135). It combines essential elements of earth and sea-a deep-penetrating, full-body thermal mask and exhilarating effervescent bubbles. The 30-room spa, available only to members and resort guests, offers a number of packages and full-day treatments, including a spa package for two-one night's coastal accommodations, a 50-minute massage for two plus breakfast for two, starting at $659 per night.

Perhaps because of our proximity to the Gulf of Mexico, water, with its restorative, healing powers, is central to many of the treatments at the Hyatt Regency Coconut Point Resort's Stillwater Spa. It's one of only eight in the country to offer a Watsu pool, combining Shiatsu-style massage in water warmed to body temperature. As part of the spa's three-hour Soothing Serenity package, you'll get a Watsu session, reflexology and a moisture-drenching intense hydration facial. The spa is open to guests or the public, and the Watsu package is $393.

Whether you're hot-blooded honeymooners or longtime lovers, the Sanibel Harbour Resort & Spa's Day of Indulgence for Couples could fire up some sparks. It includes side-by-side massage, pedicure, four-layer facial and spa lunch. As part of the $840 package (hotel accommodations are extra), couples also enjoy the ultimate in togetherness and quality time: the Caloosa Experience, a one-hour session in a private steam chamber. After initial instruction from a therapist, couples tend to themselves and each other, sharing body treatments and an invigorating steam bath.
Information: The Spa at the Ritz-Carlton, Naples, 280 Vanderbilt Beach Road, Naples, (239)514-6100; Stillwater Spa, 5001 Coconut Road, Bonita Springs, (239), 390-4360; and Sanibel Harbour Resort & Spa, 17260 Harbour Pointe Drive, (239) 466-2156.

Angelic Advice

No, it's not rocket science-or any kind of science-but for a fun psychic interlude, consider a session with Naples tarot card reader and channeler Barbara Wood. Known to some of the local socialites who seek her advice as the "Angel Lady," Wood is both problem solver and peacemaker, showing clients different paths through her tarot readings. She also claims to communicate with lost loved ones. Many clients find her readings therapeutic and revealing. "I help them understand why something is happening and how to change it," she explains. "I make them see that nothing's written in stone." Whether you're wondering about your financial future, or just want something to gossip about with girlfriends, Wood, who charges $75 an hour, is the one to call.(239) 530-0800.

Vacation Property

It's official: According to several recent studies (see "It's About Lifestyle," page 200) Southwest Florida is the most sought-after second-home destination in the country, and most experts predict the red-hot property market will continue to sizzle. Owning your own little piece of the Gulfshore is a great investment, as well as providing a place to visit-or live. And as long as you're acquiring property, why not go for the gold? At press time, the highest-priced home in Southwest Florida was a $21 million, six-bedroom, nine-bath estate in Aqualane Shores, complete with bungalow, private tennis court and a prime 2.67-acre lot on Naples Bay. With more than 9,200 square feet, you'll have plenty of room to spread out.Contact Bill Earls at John R. Wood Realtors, (239) 777-6622.

Share the Wealth

Receiving is rewarding, but any philanthropist will tell you that the greatest joy in life comes from giving. Leave your mark upon the Gulfshore with a gift to one of the hundreds of altruistic organizations and worthwhile causes that passionately work to make this region a better place. To find one that suits your selflessness, check out Gulfshore Life's Charity Register. You can view the magazine and its list of causes online at GulfshoreLife.com; or we'll be happy to send your own personal copy free of charge. E-mail senior editor Tracy Jones (tjones@gulfshorelifemag.com) or write her at 9051 Tamiami Trail N., Suite 202, Naples, FL 34108.