Gifts from the Sea

1. Cioppino, the dish that San Francisco made famous, comes to Naples courtesy of Real Seafood Co. Heads will turn as your server delivers this large bowl brimming with succulent seafood-a lobster half and a king crab leg dangle over the side, while clams, mussels and shrimp settle into a golden tomato-based broth infused with fennel. (Ask for extra bread for dipping-you won't want to waste a drop.) 8960 Fontana Del Sol Way, No. 103, Naples; (239) 591-3523.

2. Leave it to Key West-inspired Duval Street Seafood Co. to put a new spin on an old Florida favorite like stone crab. Studded with peppers, onions, mushrooms and more, this savory stone crab pie eliminates one of the biggest drawbacks of gorging on the local crustacean: cracking the claws and digging out the meat. 26051 S. Tamiami Trail, Bonita Springs; (239) 949-8513.

3. Yabba Island Grill puts a fanciful island accent on everything it touches, but Maine lobster has never seen the likes of Yabba's lobster stir-fry. Tossed with fresh fish and jumbo shrimp, this exotic stir-fry is glazed with a fruity and floral, sweet and sour pineapple-ginger sauce and garnished with toasted cashews. 711 Fifth Ave. S., Naples; (239) 262-5787.

4. These days, restaurants can get just about any exotic item flown in for a price. But when you order stone crab claws at Truluck's you don't have to worry about where or when they were harvested. The Texas-based restaurant chainlet runs its own fishery-a fleet of 16 boats based at Isles of Capri near Naples. "From our traps to your table in less than 24 hours," Truluck's promises.

698 Fourth Ave. S., Naples; (239) 530-3131.

5. Sushi is a great showcase for fresh seafood, and the Cool Hawaii roll at Blu Sushi makes a dazzling statement in taste and color. The smooth texture of fresh tuna and cream cheese contrasts with the gentle crunch of cucumber and smelt roe in this unique creation, which is topped with the eye-popping green of kiwi slices. In Fort Myers at 13451 McGregor Blvd.; (239) 489-1500. In Naples at the Plaza on Third, 1170 Third St. S.; (239) 403-9901.

6. When you're hungering for something other than the same old local fish varieties, head to Roy's for the Hawaiian-style misoyaki butterfish. (The name refers not to an exotic species but to the preparation.) Fresh fillets-typically sable fish or black cod-are marinated in miso to give the flesh a rich, buttery texture. A lemon-ginger soy butter and braised Asian vegetables complement the fish beautifully. The Promenade, 26831 South Bay Drive, Bonita Springs; (239) 498-7697.

7. Thistle Lodge captures the sublime essence of one of the world's most prized shellfish in a rich, velvety lobster bisque. As if that weren't enough, the chef stirs in rock shrimp and crowns the bowl with a dollop of crème fraîche-gilding the lily, perhaps, but the result is as dreamy as the restaurant's beachfront view. Casa Ybel Resort, 2255 West Gulf Drive, Sanibel; (239) 472-3145.

8. Southwest Florida's seafood bounty gets a French twist in the bouillabaisse at Marie Michelle's Restaurant on the Bay. The classic saffron- and Pernod-infused soup stocked with fruits de mer-mussels, shrimp, lobster and fish-is not only a good catch but a hearty one as well. The Village at Venetian Bay, 4236 Gulf Shore Blvd. N., Naples; (239) 263-0900.

9. When you don't want your seafood overwhelmed by a spice cabinet's worth of seasonings and some flashy cooking technique, ceviche is the way to go. Tarpon Bay devotes a whole bar to this traditional South American salad cooked with citrus juice. Conch, lobster, shrimp, salmon and tuna-scoop it all up with baked flat breads. Hyatt Regency Coconut Point,

5001 Coconut Road, Bonita Springs; (239) 390-4290.

10. Just when you think there's nothing new to do with the shellfish, Joe's Crab Shack comes up with chipotle shrimp, a dish combining the salty pleasures of bacon-wrapped shrimp with the smoky, fiery allure of chipotle chile sauce. You may never go back to peel-and-eat again. In Fort Myers at 2024 W. First St.; (239) 332-1881. In Naples at

1355 Fifth Ave. S.; (239) 793-7700.