Dressing Right Today

Marissa Hartington knows fashion. Vogue has called her 10,000-square-foot Naples boutique, Marissa Collections, one of its "favorite stores." Both Harper's Bazaar and Departures magazines have included Marissa's on their lists of the 20 best stores in America. Even The New York Times ran two full pages featuring Marissa's chic ensembles. Famous visitors to her store include Courtney Cox Arquette, Kathie Lee Gifford and Donna Summer. For this special style issue, we asked Marissa for her inside view into the world of fashion.

There is a revival of just about everything this spring: modern and feminine, the waist is a focal point, so many beautiful belts-and Yves Saint Laurent's sensual and dramatic style is very important. But you'll see the other direction, too: bold tribal prints, exaggerated geometric shapes (some bubble skirts and puffed sleeves) and the pop of rich Caribbean brights against white. There are strong nautical, Russian and tribal elements, but within these themes you'll see a simple, more restrained silhouette: slouchy feminine tops teamed up with skinny pants and skirts, or full dirndl skirts paired with fitted jackets and tailored tees.

But you have to buy what flatters. People make a mistake when they just follow the trends without regard to their own shape. Bootleg pants have been in now for several seasons, and as we switch to a skinnier silhouette, people think perhaps they can't wear straight-leg pants anymore. They can, but if they have full hips, they need to pair them with a tunic-length top and a beautiful shoe, perhaps some strappy metallic sandals or one of the new softer espadrilles.

They can also use color to balance the body. Women who are shaped like a pear can do this by wearing a dark color on the bottom with a light or brightly colored or embellished top. But bustier women are better with the dark color on the top and a beautiful pattern or pale color in the skirt or trouser to draw attention to slimmer hips.

If you are of a certain age and your skin is not so fresh-looking, try some color near your face. A beautiful China-blue shell beneath a jacket or just a scarf or necklace or a new Swarovski crystal hair ornament can revitalize the complexion in a way that makeup alone cannot. When you ask me to design a look, I am particular about the whole look, from the hair and the makeup to the accessories, even the shoes.

But ultimately, I don't care whether my clients buy everything here-if they don't want to buy shoes to go with a look, for whatever reason, I'll bring out the kind of shoes they should look for, maybe even in their closet at home. One of the mistakes people make is buying compulsively, without focus. People often get too item-y when they buy-too many unrelated pieces. Better to buy one complete outfit that suits you and will work for you.

In helping our clients build a wardrobe for all occasions, we'll take something good from someone's closet and rework it with the newest pieces. We often give our customers pictures of how to wear the new pieces with what is already in their closet. I believe in looking at the cut of a garment before I look at the price tag. That's how I ended up bringing designers like Calvin Klein, Perry Ellis, Anne Klein, Geoffrey Beene, Bill Blass and Oscar de la Renta to Naples. There was a certain innocence to it. I would have been very nervous when I started if I thought first about price. Instead, I concentrated on buying the best designs I could find at every price. I try to make sure they become part of a working wardrobe because, to me, luxury goods should have a very long life.

Of course, it pleases me to help people look beautiful and see them happy. We had a man come in the other day to buy something for his wife who had had a stroke. She needed something for two events, her birthday and a big dinner, and she couldn't come in herself. So we sent an associate with several complete outfits and pictures of more to the nursing home with the man. His wife chose what she wanted, and it was wonderful to see her so happy.

To me, dressing is not just about the pieces, it is about what inspires us to create a feeling, a demeanor, a mood. I am truly inspired everywhere. I love to read. I just started a book on the American Revolution. I am fascinated by American history, and I know a lot about Native American tribes. My favorite channels are Discovery and the History Channel. I love to learn other languages. I am on the board of the [Naples] Botanical Gardens here, and I often find inspiration in flower arrangements. In fact, everywhere I go I take photos of the arrangements in the hotels, in the restaurants, in the spas . I have a huge collection.

This year, I was particularly inspired by the visual effects of the House of Flying Daggers. I am buying lots of China blue this spring as well as stark black and white. Asia is such a big inspiration in fashion again. I believe Memoirs of a Geisha will provide a huge direction in makeup and also for styling. In fashion this year, there's also a reference to imperial Asia in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. You'll see lots of intricate embroidery and beautiful rich colors.

I am fascinated by all cultures: Indonesia, Thailand, Africa. I see the contribution of every culture, and we need to respect every culture. We, in America, are multicultural, and it is what makes it interesting; it adds to our 21st-century culture. So it is very important to me personally to represent many ethnicities at Marissa's and to cater to all types of women: classic women, editorially inspired women, the customer who identifies with understated luxury and, absolutely, women of all age groups.