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Dining with Flair

By: Shellie Benson


Looking for quality restaurants? Our panel offers a variety of choices.

Where’s a good place to eat around here? It sounds like a simple question, but along the Gulfshore the sheer volume of restaurants with varying degrees of quality and price could leave a newcomer needing some guidance. To put together a quality list for all tastes in dining, we enlisted the help of Charles Haskell, founding partner and vice chairman for Lettuce Entertain You, which owns 65 restaurants across the country; Sherie Brezina, founding director of Florida Gulf Coast University’s resort and hospitality management program; Lacey King, director of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs’ Naples chapter; and long-time Bonita Springs resident Paul Gessler, an extraordinary chef trained at the New School for culinary arts in New York City.

Our panel steers us toward the classy, the trendy, the suave and the hidden secrets you’ll want to discover for yourself. Our experts also say that the best is yet to come, as local restaurants kick up their game in this competitive market that includes hundreds of tempting locally and nationally owned restaurants, as well as top-trained master chefs at five-star hotel resorts and private clubs.

"People are getting much more particular with their food," Haskell says. "Their tastes are starting to evolve more. Restaurants have to reinvent themselves to stay ahead. The restaurants that survive in this area have to have a great product and great service."

Steak-and-Potato Goes Uptown

With many seasonal and full-time residents coming here from the Midwest, it’s no surprise that steak houses rule in Southwest Florida. The basics are big here, with some added flair—but not too much. "When restaurants have very esoteric items, they get taken off the menu," Haskell says. "To sell the esoteric things, you need more [demand]."

Fleming’s, in north Naples, gets high marks from our panel for its perfectly prepared steaks and family-style side dishes, as does a newcomer, Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, located in Coconut Point in Estero and at Coastland Center mall in Naples. "It’s the best steak house in the world," Gessler says. "You can cut the steaks with a fork."

Along with our Midwesterners, our residents are also jet setters who enjoy—and expect—culinary adventures they’ve experienced on their travels around the world. Some recent trends have found their way here: Asian-fusion cuisine is well represented (Roy’s in Naples and Bonita Springs tops the list), most restaurants offer a list of specialty martinis, and many are breaking from traditional fare and offering more healthful choices.

"The value will be more in the nutrient content as opposed to volume," Brezina says. "That’s the European influence on the way we eat now with smaller portions."

Brezina says the way the food looks is just as important as taste these days. "Chefs are adding more and more bling to the plate, so they put it in front of you and you say, ‘Wow,’" she says. "Sunshine Seafood Café and Keylime Bistro do a fantastic job with their presentation. I believe that puts us on par with the metropolitan areas that many of our visitors are familiar with."

Ethnic Influences

Looking for Thai? We’ve got it. How about some authentic Mexican? Sure. Japanese, Italian and Greek? Yes, we have those, too. But it’s the French cuisine in the area that catches our experts’ eyes and pleases their palates most. Two French favorites are Bleu Provence and Marie-Michelle’s Restaurant. Côte d’Azur Restaurant, a small French restaurant located in a north Naples strip mall, is one of the area’s best-kept secrets, according to King, who plans exclusive fine-dining experiences with her organization and works with many local upscale restaurants. "It’s one of my favorite restaurants."

Located a mile-and-a-half south of Côte d’Azur, Bha! Bha! transports diners to the Middle East. "Bha! Bha! serves the most authentic foreign food I’ve stumbled on in Naples," says King. "They stick to original Persian recipes."

One of the best-represented ethnic options, Italian, is served in all price ranges and in varying degrees of authenticity. King says Giovanni’s on Pine Ridge Road is worth the 15-minute trip from downtown Naples. "You feel like you’re in an authentic Italian restaurant, and the dishes appear to be homemade," she says.

The tapas trend, a Spanish tradition of smaller portions, has found its way onto Gulfshore menus at restaurants such as CinCin Mediterranean Bar & Grille in Fort Myers, which offers more than 15 tapas dishes.

City Style

The dining hub in Naples, for the past several years, resides on Fifth Avenue and Third Street South. The restaurants are chic, the fare is varied and most offer live music or other entertainment with scores of options within walking distance.

Handsome Harry’s opened in late summer with a lot of buzz, and it has delivered, says Haskell. "At first I thought the prices were too high," he says. "But after I ate there and saw the portion sizes, (which were enough for dinner and lunch the next day), I saw that they justify the prices."

Culinary Concepts, with Chops City Grill, Pazzo Italian Café and Yabba Island Grill on Fifth Avenue, offer consistency that diners rely on—making them also a favorite recommendation for newcomers. "[Owner] Skip Quillen does a great job, and I’m anxious to see his new restaurant," says Haskell, referring to Blue Water Bistro, which opened in Estero in November. "He’s a good trendsetter."

But Haskell says his favorite spot on Third Avenue South is Campiello Ristorante & Bar. "It has good food, the best atmosphere and good people-watching," Haskell says.

A word of caution, though, for downtown Naples dining: It’s nearly impossible to get a table without some planning, especially during season.

"The thing that disturbs me is that it’s not easy to get a reservation unless you call three weeks in advance," King says. "You can’t just walk down to Fifth Avenue and walk into a restaurant and be seated."

Another burgeoning hot spot for dining is the newly refurbished Waterside Shops in north Naples’ Pelican Bay. These high-end chains, including the most-recently opened Brio Tuscan Grille and BrickTop’s, generated the most excitement on the dining scene here within the past year. In the early evenings, the alfresco bar at Brio is teeming with the who’s-who of Naples.

"I was very impressed with Brio," says Haskell. "It’s the Campiello of north Naples."

Another area that holds the promise of generating a dining and social scene similar to Fifth Avenue and Third Street is the River District in downtown Fort Myers, where a lively nightlife exists with restaurants, a variety of nightclubs, bars, art galleries and other cultural venues.

"What’s interesting is, with a place like Patio 33 opening, that entire downtown has the promise and hope of becoming the same thing for Fort Myers," Brezina says. "With its pedestrian walk, it has a wonderful ambient experience.

"For many of these restaurants, when they’re charging up to $32 for a main course, it has to be a dining experience—and that includes combining the dining with music, dancing and shopping. "

Haskell agrees that the extra effort—in the entertainment, service or cuisine—is what keeps Southwest Florida diners coming back for more.

"In order for a restaurant to be successful, you need volume," he says. "You need to have a lot of people to come in to make the numbers work. The secret to success is that you have to know what people want and give them what they want."