Pursuits

My whole life has been lived in the kitchen. I believe that cooking is in your blood; it has to be a passion. When other boys were playing with toy soldiers, I had a set of small pots and pans, and I knew I wanted to be a chef at the age of seven.

Of course, in northern France, where I grew up, food is practically a way of life. Everyone savors the process of creating dishes and enjoying long, leisurely meals. No matter the season or time, food is foremost in our daily activities.

There are several places in this area that produce beautiful food—especially some restaurants on Fifth Avenue in Naples—no doubt about that. But one thing I have noticed in some of the more trendy restaurants: more and more they try to make the food more appealing. They try to create a very complicated, almost painted plate and try to make you believe that you eat with your eyes. But you don’t eat with your eyes. You eat with your mouth, so presentation of food should always be second to taste. Taste is everything.

I learned those lessons early in life when my parents hired a nanny who cooked for us. She would prepare meals in our kitchen; then, she would help me duplicate the dishes on my little child’s stove. My favorites were the homemade soups and casseroles, which I learned to make from scratch. Very simple, but so delicious. The essence of good cooking—fresh ingredients, simple recipes and respect for food—have been the hallmark of my career as a chef.

I recently prepared a dinner for a graduation party in Naples, and one of the siblings in the family asked if he could help me. Usually kids will only stay in the kitchen for about 10 minutes, and then they go off and play. But this one wanted to stay in the kitchen, so I put an apron on him, and he ended up working with me all night. He even helped introduce and explain the courses to the guests. It reminded me of myself as a kid. I sent him a chef’s jacket after that.

I received my formal training at a culinary school on the shores of Lake Geneva at Thonon-Les-Bains, and while a culinary school can’t supply the talent and passion for cooking, it does give you discipline. Good cooking, like everything else in life, is created with practice, practice, practice. That’s the philosophy I took with me when I worked at the Hotel Scribe in Paris, and when I opened my own restaurant in Fort Lauderdale.

My job as chef de cuisine at the Hideout Golf Club in Naples gives me all kinds of opportunities to be creative. It is very nice, very private, filled with people who are passionate about golf and who love food—a wonderful combination. The first thing I did when I took over the kitchen was to put my culinary philosophy to work. Initially, some of the club members were a little skeptical; they thought my cooking might be too gourmet. But they came to understand and appreciate my approach to food: fresh, quality ingredients, classic cooking technique and a focus on flavor.

It’s paid off. Our lunch business has doubled. The members look forward to something special every day that tests my abilities. I don’t make just a chicken salad for lunch. It’s fresh chicken, with fresh herbs and a flavored mayonnaise. And I use a lot of local exotic fruit, like mangoes, lychee and papaya. The tropic twist adds flair—and unique flavor.

One of the biggest thrills of my job is doing private parties. Most of the parties I do are with members of the club, so they are already familiar with my cooking style, and generally trust me to create a wonderful meal. They often ask me to come into their homes and create a classic French, sit-down dinner. These events tend to be upscale with clients who are more than happy to let me experiment—and surprise them. I specialize in what I call "dinner by the bite" or heavy hors d’oeuvres nights where I set up several stations—pasta, grill or sushi—and let people sample an array of different cuisine. One favorite dish of mine is a Vietnamese crepe made with eggs and flour, with bean spouts, shrimp and pork tossed in—then served with salad leaves, mint and basil. It’s just an explosion of taste in your mouth.

I often do parties at a private beach in Port Royal. I’ve been asked to do New Orleans- and Texas-themed dinners. The guests enjoy the showmanship of preparing the food in front of them—like a chef of television, on a stage. I’ve had several requests to come back and do that again.

Sometimes I like to do crazy things with the themes. One private party included a guest who was selling a trip around the world, including a safari, so I included an African station where I created a spring roll made with alligator. Let me tell you, that dish was the talk of the party. It was something that the guests will never forget, and I’ve now added it to my regular repertoire.

Overall, I’m doing what I love. This is not to say that being a chef is always easy. I constantly battle my weight. You do not stay slim when you spend the whole day with food. So I go up and down. What can I say? I like eating food as much as I like cooking it.

Cooking has given me the opportunity to travel the world and hone my skills but, for me, it’s always back to the basics I learned on that little stove as a child in northern France. The food will know if you love it—and so will the people for whom you cook.