Wine World

The technique used to create port is rather interesting, as it involves an unusual addition (brandy) to the vinification process. Manipulation of the process of making wine is nothing new. Sugar, water, yeasts and sulfur dioxide have been added to fermenting grape musts for as long as wine has been produced. Today the list of potential additives to wine would fill several pages in this magazine.

The Portuguese decided to head in a distinctly different direction when it came to wine additives. While most additives are used with the presumption that they will improve the quality of the finished dry wine, port is created through the technique of dumping brandy into wine vats in the middle of fermentation to keep the finished wine from being created. The rapid increase in the alcohol level in the must from the brandy addition proves toxic to the yeast, putting an immediate halt to the fermentation process. With much of the grapes’ natural sugars remaining unfermented, the resulting wines are noticeably sweet and, unlike most dessert wines, are significantly higher in alcohol than table wines.

A wide variety of grapes is used in Portugal to make port and port blends, many with unpronounceable names such as donzelinho tinto, alvarelhão and—my favorite—cornifesto. Rather than attempt to grow these grapes on foreign soil (which would presumably require the ability to pronounce them), New World producers used existing vineyards when making port, resulting in creations such as cabernet port and zinfandel port.

In general, ports can be divided into two categories: ruby and tawny. Ruby ports are often vintage wines and can also be multivintage house blends. Vintage ruby ports are among the world’s longest-lived wines. They throw off a significant amount of sediment (translation: goop) while aging, requiring the use of a decanter, light source and a steady hand. To my palate, especially in lower price ranges, tawny ports are far more interesting.

Tawny ports, with rare exceptions known as colheitas, are not vintage wines. They are aged for years in oak barrels instead of bottles. This increased exposure to oxygen and wood causes a change in color, from red to a rich caramel, and also alters their flavor profile. As the color would suggest, caramel is a prominent flavor component, along with toffee, nuts and citrus fruits. Tawny ports are designated by their age, two to seven years old being the youngest encountered, and 40-year tawnies usually being the oldest. Because of the extended barrel aging, they do not develop any sediment, nor do they need to be cellared after purchase.

The year designation of the age of a tawny is not literal; the grapes from a 10-year tawny were not harvested 10 years ago. Rather, it is the average age of the wines in the blend. Some may be from a few years ago, a portion may come from barrels 80 to 100 years old or older. Older tawnies typically are better wines, displaying remarkable complexity, and are significantly more expensive.

Australian tawnies are often much more affordable than their Portuguese counterparts. Even the five- and 10-year Australian tawnies achieve a richness and complexity only found in older Portuguese blends. They are affectionately called stickies because of their high sugar content. To measure the quality of Australian stickies against two Portuguese benchmarks, our Friday gang of four rounded up a variety of tawnies and tasted them (non-blind) side by side.

Hardys’ Whiskers Blake ($12 for 750 milliliters at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits). This is an eight-year-old tawny from the Australian region of Tantara. One of the most affordable selections, it was also one of our favorites. A thick wine, it featured rich candied flavors of caramel and walnut and had a lengthy finish.

Warre’s Otima ($18 for 500 milliliters at Costco). This Portuguese 10-year tawny’s flavors were muted with a dusty, almost whiskey-like quality to them. It was not recommended by any of the tasters, one whose tasting notes simply stated, "Kill me."

R. L. Buller & Son Premium Fine Tawny ($13 for 375 milliliters at www.b-21.com). This Aussie tawny is from the region of Victoria. While it had some pleasant toffee flavors, it had a medicinal edge and bandage aromas in its bouquet.

Chateau Reynella Old Cave ($15 for 375 milliliters at www.b-21.com). From South Australia’s McLaren Vale, this 12-year tawny is made from a blend of shiraz and grenache. It had a beautiful golden color, delightful length, flavors of apricot and dried citrus well balanced by a vibrant acidity. Its acid and balance will make it a nice match with various desserts.

Shottesbrooke Bernesh Bray ($42.50 for 500 milliliters at Haskell’s). This amber tawny, also from McLaren Vale, is made from 50-year-old grenache vines, but without an average age specified. Like the R. L. Buller, there was a distinct bandage aroma in its bouquet, along with bourbon. A bit too acidic for my taste—I felt as if I had just had my teeth cleaned after drinking it.

Yalumba Antique Tawny ($19 for 375 milliliters at The Wine Merchant). Everyone’s WOTN (Wine Of The Night). Light amber in color, this South Australian featured flavors of caramel apricot, tangerine and other dried fruits. Like the Reynella, it matched very well with dessert.

Sandeman 20-Year Tawny ($50 for 750 milliliters at In Good Spirits). This tawny from Portugal was a disappointment. Aromas were muted, its alcohol was noticeable and out of balance, its aftertaste showed unusual tobacco flavors.

Overall, the two Portuguese wines could not compare with their similarly priced Australian counterparts. As a sipping wine, and an exceptional value for its quality, I recommend the Whiskers Blake. If I were matching wine to a dessert course, I would definitely go out of my way to track down either the Reynella Old Cave or the Yalumba Antique Tawny.