Wine World

This is actually a trickier question than it would seem. Open-air environments are notorious for muting the subtle nuances and aromas that give most delicate wines their complexity. Not only is a sailboat an open-air environment, the wind rushing off the mainsail combined with the rocking of the boat yields conditions only slightly less challenging than a roller coaster. Two conclusions seemed immediately apparent. First, delicate wines weren’t going to make the cut. Second, even if I managed not to spill red wine on myself, someone else undoubtedly would, so I planned to wear a shirt that I could throw in a trashcan at the end of the sail.

Another wine selection consideration would be the meal that would accompany these wines. On this trip, our heating capacities were limited to an electric burner, and our laps would serve as our tables. Fortunately, Napoli on the Bay is right next to the Naples City Docks, and its strombolis turned out to be a perfect choice.

Shortly before sunset, we motored out of Naples Bay and raised the sails. Given the stately nature of a sailboat powered by a tiny outboard kicker, a nice white wine seemed perfect while we remained at cruising speed. One of the fellow passengers was thoughtful enough to bring a Kongsgaard chardonnay. With no disrespect intended to Peter Michael Winery, in my opinion the finest chardonnays from California today are produced by John Kongsgaard and Mark Aubert. Kongsgaard’s chardonnay is frequently available locally and, like Aubert and Peter Michael, can also be obtained through joining the winery’s mailing list.

One of Kongsgaard’s virtues is that it tastes exceptional at a variety of temperatures, showing different facets as it warms in the glass. In an open-air environment such as a sailboat, a white wine that maintains its character even when slightly warm is a prized asset, and this Kongsgaard was perfect for the occasion.

After we raised the sails and turned southward, it was time for a pinot noir. In addition to its intrinsic merit, I enjoy pinot noir for two specific reasons. First, it is an excellent transition from a white wine to a heavier red. Second, and especially appropriate in our climate, is that it performs very well with a slight chill, giving it a refreshing quality in warmer weather. We had put a slight chill on two current pinots from the Sea Smoke Cellars. Sea Smoke is an up-and-coming producer from Santa Barbara’s Santa Rita Hills appellation. In the event that you own a DVD of Sideways, play the scene where Miles goes to dinner on the double date in slow motion and you can note the name of several remarkable pinot noirs, including Sea Smoke, Kistler Vineyards and Whitcraft Winery.

This evening, we had a bottle of Botella, Sea Smoke’s relatively affordable pinot noir, as well as its premium bottling, called Ten. While the Ten was the more solid wine, it seemed as if it might benefit from another few months in the cellar, and the Botella already showed beautifully with its deep lingering fruit. Given that the Botella is about one-half the price of the Ten, it is a wine worth seeking, as is Sea Smoke’s middle-level entry, the Southing. Like Kongsgaard, Sea Smoke has been spotted both in wine stores and on restaurant wine lists around town, but it rarely sits on the shelf for long.

If I were to be asked what wine pairs well with our stromboli, my answer would be obvious. It would have to be a bold wine, with spicy flavors of its own, and tremendous depth and richness to stand up to the powerful flavors of the tomato sauce and seasoned meat. That wine is, and always will be, zinfandel. That said, if you were to ask me what wine to drink for breakfast, I would probably still answer "zinfandel." The reality is that I love zinfandel, and anything else I say on the subject is a mere justification.

One of our crew brought along the best zinfandel blends currently produced, a 2004 cherry red from Linne Calodo. Considered a 95-point beauty by Robert Parker, this zinfandel/syrah blend showed tremendously with its rich berry flavors and was an excellent accompaniment to the stromboli. Linne Calodo hails from the region of Paso Robles. For decades, Paso Robles has been the home to some interesting but mostly forgettable wines. Recently, with the emergence of Linne Calodo, Saxum Vineyard and L’Aventure, Paso Robles has become one of the hottest wine regions in California.

As our second shift captain went below decks for an early nap, the intrepid nonsailors remained above deck to contemplate the mysteries of life and another zinfandel, this one a party line from Robert Biale Vineyards. On a dark night in the middle of the Bay of Florida, the sky comes alive. Not only does the Milky Way actually look as it does on the cover of a Carl Sagan book, the orbits of several satellites can be easily traced. While the moon-rise does not have the same blazing glory as a sunset, it is nonetheless an impressive experience—especially with nothing but water for miles in every direction. Such a contemplative atmosphere calls for a sipping wine, and the Biale zinfandel was easily up to the task. Finally, succumbing to the beauty of the evening or perhaps the mystery that is zinfandel, the majority of us crawled below decks to sleep.

That night, I learned an important lesson. No matter how much you may be mocked for bringing a down pillow with you on a "manly" sailing trip, it becomes a prized commodity at around two in the morning, and even your closest of friends will steal it from you once you fall asleep.

Calm seas awaited our arrival in Key West. Despite its reputation as Margaritaville, Key West is home to a rapidly increasing number of fine restaurants and wine stores. One restaurant not to be missed is Blue Heaven.

The menu at Blue Heaven has always been creative and its food expertly prepared. Its wine list is remarkable, both for the reasonable prices and the rarities it contains. In the morning after a long pillowless sail, I recommend a champagne, as zinfandel with breakfast—like many things—turns out to be better in theory than in application.