Appetite

Mitchell laughed. "Oh no," he said. "We’re a long way from that."

You won’t truly appreciate just how far until you sample Kurrents’ delectable desserts. We tried the trio of crème brûlée—including lychee, espresso and dahlia coconut—and the Banoffi tart, a banana, toffee and dough concoction served with chocolate caramel ice cream and carmelized bananas ($9 each). We also noticed that a few children who were scattered about were eating what looked like cotton candy. It turns out that the raspberry chiffon cheesecake (also $9) is served with spun sugar and fresh berries.

Nobody who works at Kurrents is phoning it in. On the contrary, the food is good enough to cure a hotel-dining-phobe forever. Heck, let the tourists fend for themselves. Locals who want fresh food prepared with style need to make
reservations right away.

Kurrents The Marco Island Marriott Beach Resort, 400 S. Collier Blvd., Marco Island; (239) 642-2695 or www.marcoislandmarriott.com/dining_kurrents.html. Dinner daily from 5:30 p.m.–10 p.m. Reservations suggested. Valet and self-parking available. Credit cards accepted. Wheelchair accessible.