Forty five guests at the 2012 Naples Winter Wine Festival  experienced a magical  evening in a dream-like setting  at one of 17 elegant vintner’s dinners. This dinner featured renowned Chef Dean Fearing of Fearing’s in Dallas, fine wines from Gargiulo Vineyards of Oakville, California, acclaimed pianist Robert Wells and singer Maria Wells, a magician, and a surprise duet. The next day, 580 guests gathered under the Auction tent at the Ritz-Carlton Golf Resort to raise $12.2 million dollars.  All funds directly help the children of Collier County.

The evening’s dinner, hosted by NWWF trustees Laura and Jim Dixon and  NWWF trustees/vintners Valerie Boyd and Jeff Gargiulo, was held at Michael DeGroote Sr.’s  lovely Port Royal beachfront home. Guests were greeted with champagne and a duo of passed hors d’oeuvres, and relaxed, overlooking a stunning  sunset and  palm trees.

 “Sunsets just don’t more glorious than this” one guest said. The whimsically named two-bite lobster taco appetizer is a serious taste treat with chunks of lobster in a creamy guacamole base, topped with goat cheese and sliced lettuce. The smoked chicken nachos with charred tomato salsa are so tender, one guest asked “Are you sure this is chicken?”

Guests were then seated in a cozy dining room and dined on the first course of butternut squash bisque with smoky poblano cream, delicate  Jonah crab hush puppies and picked red onions. Vintners Jeff Gargiulo and Valerie Boyd’s  2010 Wood Ranch Chardonnay was a great match for the rich bisque and the crisp red onions.

Next, large, sweet, perfectly seared Nantucket Lightship scallops were served over Oregon truffle pasta  topped with a rich oxtail demi and Grana Padano Parmesan. Chicken-fried Lockhart Bobwhite quail was one of the most delicious treats savored –the panko-like crunchy exterior gives way to a tender texture and sensual flavor that some compared  to a Kobe steak. Paired with fois gras-corn bread stuffing, cranberry brown butter and the evening’s hit wine, the 2008 G Major 7 Study Cab, the quail dish struck a chord with all diners as a truly exquisite pairing. 

How do you top that? With maple black pepper-crusted buffalo tenderloin on jalapeno grits, with a roasted sweet potato-filled taquito and chili aioli, of course. I’ve not generally been a fan of most buffalo, however this grass-fed Oklahoma herd yields a superbly flavorful and tender steak that’s indistinguishable from fine beef to many steak eaters. Chef Fearing said that buffalo has been his best-selling dish for five years.

Warm chocolate cajeta cake followed, topped with marshmallow cream, crunchy cookies and peanut brittle. Yes, comfort food, sweet Texas style, with goat milk caramel.

Afterwards, guests went to the patio to check out the talented guitarists Jeff Gargiulo and Chef Fearing, who tuned up guitars and then sang a surprise duet of  “Knocking on Heaven’s Door.”

Inside the dining room at Gordon's on the River.

This elegant setting perched above Naples’ mangrove-shored Gordon River is truly the favored catbird seat for upscale diners—both seafaring and landlubbers alike.

During the season it's a welcome lush oasis to relax in, free from the crowds and noise at popular spots. It is set apart from other restaurants by Chef Andrew McLaughlin's culinary expertise.

Shrimp cocktail appetizers

I flipped over the large tender diver scallops topped with bits of crisp onions, wonderfully sauced tenderloin, and delicious rich venison with Madeira sauce and ostrich (tastes like steak, not chicken) with grain mustard-shallot sauce. Gordon’s luscious bread pudding is a dessert must!

A trio of featured desserts.

Sommelier Ian Ponsford has crafted a nicely priced, inviting wine list with popular labels and quite a few “finds.” The service is first rate. My friends would come back just for Paul, our evening’s server who is funny, knows a dish's ingredients as well as the chef, and is spot on in his recommendations.

Owner Jon Finstrom, left, with Sandy Stillwell, outgoing Mayor Bill Barnett and Mayor-elect John Sorey.

Owner Jon Finstrom has recreated the best part of old style dining clubs with Gordon’s delicious food, top service and a beautiful setting. Members and their guests enjoy the private club's ambiance and food. Membership is just $199 per year, plus meals. Do the math. Delicious food, elegant setting and a spot on the river in Naples—it's the real deal.

475 North Road, Naples, 213-1441, www.gordonsontheriver.com

Paris Bistro and Bakery offers delicious French cuisine and bistro comfort at bistro-friendly prices in a welcoming setting. Brothers David and Phil DiGrazia with Astrid Maillard, co-owner of Naples’ Le Lafayette Restaurant, opened the Bistro about a month ago.  It’s already popular with Le Lafayette’s regulars, and has been discovered by curious drivers on Tamiami Trail North. Located at the prior site of Amador’s  Bistro Italiano, the trio has wisely kept Amador’s upscale décor and added unique accents with an antique scale and paintings.

Le Lafayette chef/co-owner Sebastian Maillard is currently the main chef, alternating with other Le Lafayette chefs. A baker as well, Maillard added the bakery and a long, open case displaying a luscious variety of fruit tarts, quiches, light pastries and French cheeses.

It’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and you could take all day to peruse the menus. Breakfasts range from $4.80 to under $9 for ham and cheese or salmon cream cheese croissants. Build your own omelets and the favorite Paris breakfast combo. The fresh ground coffee is a must-have.  Lunch’s croque monsieur/madame, brie sandwich and ultimate steak burger with melted goat or blue cheese are popular. Dinner is easy on the wallet—with prices range up to mid $20’s. Try onion soup, sea bass with citrus marinade, salmon with beurre blanc, and popular roasted pork chop with Dijon mustard crust. My favorite is the cheese raclette for two or more ($26.50 per person).

This is a dish to share as you select from ham, salami, prosciutto, tomatoes, potatoes and cheese, then heat your choice in a special coupelle on the tabletop heater. With a nice chardonnay this is perfect for leisurely dining and conversation.  Savor dessert from a variety of sweet crepes, fresh pastries and cakes.

Paris Bistro and Bakery, 2500 Tamiami Trail North, #114, Naples, 455-4585, parisinnaples.com
Le Lafayette, 375 13th Avenue South, Naples, 403-7861, lelafayette.com