Hot Dish: Feb. 10, 2010

by Ivan Seligman

Inside the Gulfshore’s dining scene.

First Rossopomodoro in the Country Comes to Naples

Fifth Avenue South now has classic Neapolitan pizza at Rossopomodoro, made from scratch by native Italian pros who bake it in a huge beehive-shaped, wood-burning oven. Boy, is it ever good! Based in the Campania region of Italy, the restaurant chain now has 80 Rossopomodoro(red tomato) restaurants across Italy, Japan, England and even Iceland. The first U.S. location? Naples, of course.

Rossopomodoro in Naples.

The restaurant’s wide windows offer a broad view along Fifth Ave South, and the décor’s wood floors, white walls, and wood and wicker chairs giving an upscale yet casual ambiance. General Manager Armando Bisceglia, owner Francesca Neri and the staff are warm and welcoming.

Luigi Fuengo makes pizza at Rossopomodoro.

The handmade Neapolitan pizzas, red or white style, range from $9 to $14, with more than 30 varieties. Toppings include buffalo mozzarella, ricotta, Grana Padano and other cheeses, anchovies, spicy salami, sausage and prosciutto di Parma. They even import water from Naples, Italy, to prepare pizza dough and coffee! The imported Italian Gragnano pasta is said to be the world’s best—taste it and see.

I like the pasta fajioli with cooked mussels. The A Tella appetizer ($7) is a popular sampler, with deep fried potato croquettes, arancini (rice balls), mozzarella in carrozza and fried pizza dough balls with Grana Padano cheese. For $12 to $24, sample various pastas, grilled chicken, pan-fried sausage, baccala (Italian-style cod) or a New York Strip steak.

The dessert list includes a special tiramisu with Nutella Chantilly cream, a chocolate “salami,” gelatino, molten chocolate soufflé or a fresh fruit salad. Take home some classic Gragnano pasta and sauce, already packaged for travel. Rossopomodoro, 800 Fifth Ave. S., Naples, 692-8480, www.rossopomodoro.us

Goodbye, Bacchus?

Executive Chef Heath Higginbotham promised to liven things up at Bacchus in Bell Tower Shops by having guest Southwest Florida chefs hold court at the south Fort Myers restaurant over the next few months. The real surprise, however, is that Bacchus has suddenly closed.

Although a sign says it is closed for remodeling, there’s no date for reopening. The restaurant aisles are packed with patio chairs and tables. Why would a restaurant suddenly close for remodeling during the most lucrative few months of the year?

Bacchus interior at Bell Tower Shops.

Business dwindled after Chef Shannon Yates left and returned to Crü, taking his loyal clientele and some servers with him. Cindy Doragh, executive vice president of Bacchus’ parent corporation, Swanky Lifestyle, declined to comment on the restaurant’s future at this time. My best guess is that another restaurant concept will emerge.

Out with Roman Oven, In With Sophia’s

Sophia’s Ristorante Italiano has taken over the former site of Roman Oven on Pine Ridge Road in Naples. It has expanded upon the space’s existing décor of marble stonework, adding beautiful tables, warm lighting and attractive woodwork. The kitchen’s center is the wood-burning brick oven for baking Neapolitan pizzas.

Sophia's Ristorante Italiano owners Jay and Camille Cherr.

Owners Jay and Camille Cherr trained in Italy and have perfected their classic recipes, making Sophia’s pasta and sauces daily. This is a three-generation family restaurant, with the Cherr’s four-month-old daughter, Sophia, and Jay’s dad, John, often on premises. New customers as well as some from their Marco Island sister restaurant, Susie’s Diner, are keeping the tables filled since its Jan. 29 opening.

Veal Milanese at Sophia's.

Some of the generous, must-have items include Bella Sophia’s fresh sole with chopped plum tomatoes, garlic, onions and olives ($25); Veal Milanese, a large portion thinly pounded, topped with arugula, chopped onions and oil ($33); and the veal chop parmigiana ($33).

The Genovesi family at Sophia's.

Got a sweet tooth? Satisfy it with the spigadelle puff pastry filled with ricotta cheese and citrus ($6), or a couple can share the Bananas Foster ($22) or cherries jubilee, each flambéed tableside. That’s not often seen these days. Customers John Genovesi and his family give a hearty “thumbs up” to the great food! Sophia’s Ristorante Italiano, 3545 Pine Ridge Road, Naples, 597-0744.

Try Some of the Best Barbecue Around Southwest Florida

What do I share in common with Daniel Boone, Jimmy Carter and Florida’s Native American Indians? A love of great barbecue! Barbecue is the culinary art that predates Columbus’ 1492 voyages. I just had some of the best barbecue in Florida in south Fort Myers.

Backyard BBQ School.

It wasn’t served at a restaurant but at barbecue maven Emmett Todd’s Backyard BBQ School at Lakes Park. After hearing great reviews of his monthly course, I attended his $65 three-hour class last weekend. With lively and fun hands-on teaching and Power Point presentations, he extensively covers how to make authentic, high-quality barbecue from scratch at home so you can relax while it slowly cooks at the right temperature.

Emmett Todd

While barbecue basics are the same, from the most inexpensive home setups to top-of-the-line models, what kicks your barbecue’s taste up quite a few notches are the copious tricks of the trade he shares. I now know what the pros at national barbecue competitions were actually achieving when they spritzed the “Q” at certain times with mysterious liquids, or covered it with foil at other times. Emmett’s done years of traveling and research so you can benefit.

Emmett Todd teaches the Backyard BBQ Class about rubs.

All 16 attendees, beginners through pros, agreed that it’s well worth the price of admission. One self-proclaimed “decent amateur” said he learned a lot of subtle things that will make a big difference. Emmett covers it all, including basic sauces and rubs, hardwood lump charcoal, briquettes vs. propane (not!), best cuts to use, proper cooking techniques, proper thermometer placement, temperature control and timing.

We sipped lemonade and tea during the course while we munched on apps and practically swooned over heavenly barbecue ribs. At the end, we feasted on more succulent ribs, mojo chicken and various sides. You can order a few spare rib racks or chicken ahead of time and pick ’em up at the course.

It’s a family business with wife, Jessica, and teenage children Lauren and Jared assisting. They cater and travel to teach the course. I’ve invited them to teach and cater for my own group in Naples. I can’t wait to share the “Q” and the “BBQ Force!” Backyard BBQ School, 822-1088, www.backyardbbqschool.com.

Amador’s Bistro Is Back

Amador’s Bistro Italiano reopened Jan. 25 at its former site on U.S. 41 N. in Naples after being shuttered for several years. During that time, Chef Richard Amador had opened a bistro of the same name on Bayshore Drive, partnered with Dino Redzic in Amador’s Italian Restaurant by the Courthouse, helped a friend at Fred’s Diner and pitched in at Ohana’s on the East Trail for a couple months, all the while planning the return to this popular location.

Amador's on U.S. 41 in Naples.

He has partnered with Glenn and Wendy Beecroft in the return to U.S. 41, sparing no details in creating a friendly, yet elegant setting. The décor is lush with red booths, purplish walls and colorful abstract paintings. This is clearly a big homecoming for Chef Amador’s fans. By word of mouth alone, the parking lot was nearly full on its second night open.

Chef Amador serves his style of classic Italian cuisine, and regulars know just what to order. Prices are reasonable for the generous portions. Lunch entrees are $10; dinner entrees are $17 for six chicken dishes; $20-$28 for most seafood (shrimp, calamari, conch or clams); $24 for veal; and $33 for 8-ounce filets and 16-ounce steaks. Amador’s, 2500 Tamiami Trail N., Naples, 262-8500, www.amadorsbistro.com.

Let’s broaden our dining choices together. Post your hints and experiences of great Southwest Florida restaurants below, as a comment, or email diningscene@live.com.

Posted: 2/10/2010 9:40:53 AM | 0 comments

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