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Best Bite: Jarret d’Agneau with Flageolet Ragout at The French



Vanessa Rogers

By now, chef Vincenzo Betulia’s latest addition to Naples, The French Brasserie Rustique, should—like his flagship Osteria Tulia—be packed. But rather than being transported to the Italian countryside, diners will be sliding into these wooden tables and saying bonjour to Paris, Nice or Lyon. Betulia, tapping into his classic French culinary training, has put forth a traditional menu, from steak tartare to moules frites. He even spent an entire vacation in France brasserie-hopping to get the details just right. Expect mirrored walls, crusty baguettes, a convivial spirit and rustic dishes that belie his trademark sophistication, such as this Colorado-raised lamb shank resting atop a pool of petite tender beans. The prime meat is braised for five hours with the Frenchest of French mélange of thyme, sage, rosemary, carrots, onion, celery, leeks and garlic confit.  

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