But the Doubletree folks appear an exception to the rule. I've had stylish and appetizing fare at restaurants affiliated with Doubletrees in various parts of the country.

The Naples collaboration proves true to form: Charlie Chiang's and the Doubletree Guest Suites strike a harmonious partnership, a yin and yang of hospitality.

The Washington, D.C.-based restaurant chain recently opened its first Gulfshore location in burgeoning north Naples. Chiang's has a menu much like that of P.F. Chang's, with offerings from Japan, Vietnam and Thailand, although most dishes hail from China.

Americanized dishes such as chow mein and lo mein are available, but most of the offerings are authentically Chinese. I'm talking about entrées that include Peking duck, a whole fish steamed and served with Szechuan sauce, crispy hot shredded chicken and Hunan pork.

Spicy dishes, heart-healthy items and those that can be steamed and served with sauce on the side are all labeled for easy identification.

From the entry way, which opens to the gleaming sushi bar and lounge, through the stark, minimalist dining room, to the long deck for alfresco dining overlooking the Cocohatchee River, Chiang's offers a variety of atmospheres from which to choose.

From the Chinese menu, we tried the crescent lettuce petals. From the sushi menu, we selected the ahi tuna nigiri and a dragon roll.

The lettuce petals were leaves of iceberg lettuce into which we spooned a warm mixture of diced shrimp and vegetables in a delicate brown sauce. The cool lettuce and warm stuffing made for a pleasurable combination, a good beginning to the meal.

The sushi was fresh and beautifully presented, the tuna a rich red color, the flavor sweet and fresh. The dragon roll contained tempura shrimp and avocado wrapped in sushi rice and crunchy little fish eggs. It all came arranged on a showy wooden tray along with a generous dollop of wasabi and an equally liberal serving of pickled ginger.

For our main course we ordered the Pearls of the Sea and Chiang's eggplant medallions, which came from the "Charlie Chiang's recommends" section of the menu. To round things out, we added the pan-fried noodles with meat, shrimp and vegetables.

The aptly named Pearls of the Sea contained lobster, shrimp, scallops and crabmeat mingled with broccoli, cauliflower and carrots in a mild white wine sauce. I'm not generally a fan of mild sauces, but this one worked without drowning out the taste of the shellfish.

The eggplant medallions were superb. I suspect this will be one of those dishes I'll find myself craving again and again. Eggplant slices were lightly battered and expertly fried for a satisfying crunch surrounding a creamy interior. To top it off, the disks were bathed in a subtle sweet-and-sour sauce mixed with dried orange zest.

The pan-fried noodles came as a crisp cake topped with vegetables, beef, pork, shrimp and chicken. This sauce was the darkest of the three and the most savory as well, balancing well against the tangy eggplant and mild seafood dish.

For a sweet finish, we shared a piece of tempura cheesecake. It may sound like an extra-rich, heavy dessert, but it wasn't. The outside was lightly battered and properly fried and the inside was smooth, not-too-rich cheesecake that had softened during the frying process. The raspberry sauce on which it was served was good enough to serve as a dessert all by itself.

Service was attentive and efficient throughout the meal. This is a restaurant that doesn't skimp on staff or the training that makes it all work. Whether it's sushi or expertly prepared Chinese fare you're after, this Naples newcomer is well equipped to satisfy a wide range of cravings.

Charlie Chiang's, Doubletree Guest Suites, 12200 Tamiami Trail N., Naples; (239) 593-6688. Open 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. every day. Reservations accepted. Credit cards. Wheelchair accessible. Free parking.

Reviewed: June 2006