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Dining Review: Osteria Tulia

Osteria Tulia offers simple Italian cuisine, where handmade pasta is the star.

Ode to Sicily Google “Sicilian Cooking” and you’ll learn this centuries-old la cucina povera (peasant cooking) has been passed down from generation to generation. It seems natural for Vincenzo Betulia, former head chef of Campiello, a son of Sicilian immigrants, to return to the island for his first restaurant—Osteria Tulia. And to do it, he brought his family with him. His wife, parents and other family members work with him every day. Although the meat dishes might be considered the main course, our reviewer suggests indulging more in the pastas, which are handmade and expertly prepared. My companion and I—we happily ate our way through Italy a few years ago—couldn’t wait to see if Betulia famiglia fare could match those delicious culinary memories. And if we had learned anything in each city’s ristorantes, it was to never sacrifice a bit of savory pasta to save room for the entrée. Pasta was clearly the star of the show. Meat dishes paled in comparison. This held true at Tulia. In anticipation of finding some perfect Italian-style pastas (all of Tulia’s pasta is handmade on the premises), my companion chose the stracci ($17)—tender duck slow braised in red wine over flat strips of al dente stracci pasta. Simply delicious. I opted for the linguine and Pine Island clams ($18) in white wine with pancetta and a shaved Parmesan garnish. I was initially skeptical about the pancetta, and with goo
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