Food + Dining Main


Caffe Milano: Light-Filled Space, Lite Lunch

A change in ownership last season rethought the décor and menu at a Fifth Avenue space that’s hosted rotating Italian restaurants for several years.

BY July 27, 2016

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some restaurants seem to spin through concepts and owners faster than a whirling dervish. One such spot happens to be a spacious corner on Fifth Avenue South across from Bistro 821.

Remade last season into Caffe Milano by a new team—it had previously been L’Angolo and before that Rosso Pomodoro—the weathered wood floors, rustic accents like copper pots and wine barrels, and a less red sauce-heavy Italian menu render the place barely recognizable. (Minus the layout, which stayed the same.)

Since now is when many restaurants on Fifth (and Naples in general), give up on lunch service before resuming normal hours during season, it’s a good time to check out the all-day menu, which is just what I did with some friends one recent afternoon.

I was thrilled to see skizza—a lighter way to do pizza with a super-thin crispy crust (if you’ve been to Gigi Trattoria in the Hudson Valley, you know what I’m talking about). I ordered the margherita ($13) and made quick work of every last inch.

Two of my dining companions had the gazpacho ($10) and noted it was more like a chilled tomato bisque with shrimp, “but refreshing all the same.”

(We loved the purse trees, too!)

We also enjoyed various salads: goat cheese with a hazelnut dressing ($15), kale with pancetta and green beans ($14), quinoa with smoked salmon ($15).

There was one complaint about a portion of tuna tartare being too small for $20, but for a summer lunch, this new café hit the spot.

 

To plan a visit:

Caffe Milano

800 Fifth Ave. S., Naples

(239) 692-8480

caffemilanonaples.com

 

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