Like Sophia Lauren or a fine Italian wine, some restaurants get better with age. Not one lining Naples’ Fifth Avenue South has done so with more grace than Pazzo! Cucina Italiana. Launched 20 years ago this month, its secret to going through the decades with style is focusing on fresh ingredients and staying on top of the times (if you look closely, the menu often changes week to week). While we love the made-from-scratch pastas topped with local littleneck clams and wild boar Bolognese from new executive chef Eugenio Tinajero, we were excited to catch a seared scallop starter. Two plump U-10s get crisp notes from a pea tendril salad, and depth comes in the form of candied fennel, a Meyer lemon emulsion and tomato jam with citrus foam—the makings for a timeless dish, if you ask us. 853 Fifth Ave. S., Naples, 434-8494, pazzoitaliancafe.com
