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Best Bite: Bleu Cheese Gnocchi with Short Ribs at Timeless



Vanessa Rogers

 

If breakfast and lunch cafés are the 9-to-5ers of the restaurant world, this hybrid market-café-bar-lounge-coffee shop is the guy who’s clocking 100 hours. The sheer scope of what veteran local chef David Nelson is attempting to do is mindboggling. From-scratch everything starts with frittatas and bagelwiches in the morning (with Seattle-trained baristas prepping espressos), then moves onto coal-fired pizzas, pressed sandwiches and kaleidoscopic salads—and then onto coffee hour, happy hour and dinner with hearty comfort fare, like this gnocchi capped by 24-hour-espresso-and-stout-braised short ribs. We’re excited for the more is more approach, not to mention all-day delivery and the beauty of the space, courtesy of its owner, architect Matthew Kragh. It’s a dreamscape of coastal white, with inviting seating nooks you’d expect to find in one of his Old Naples masterpieces.

90 Tamiami Trail N., Naples, 239-331-4013, timelesseatery.com

Related: The Best Bites of Southwest Florida

 

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