Taste


Through the Grapevine

Naples' Three60 Market introduces a white wine from a family-owned Spanish vineyard experimenting with the little-known godello grape.

Three60 Market’s wine shop pulls double duty: in addition to being a retail hub, it serves as a wine list for the market’s adjoining bistro, thanks to the restaurant’s generous BYOB policy. This unique setup keeps wine director Donna Leahy on a compelling quest to find wines that excite customers with a “drink now” and “drink later” mentality. The shopping environment also allows Leahy to speak with customers longer than the customary time a sommelier gets tableside. She likes to select wines that introduce wine lovers to producers, regions and grapes that are outside of their comfort zone. In this vein of discovery, Leahy is currently excited about a grape that is far from any of the marquee names in white wine: godello—and specifically, Bodega Emilio Moro’s La Revelía, from Spain’s Bierzo appellation. “It has intense aroma of stone fruit and an herbaceous note,” Leahy says. “On nose and palate, it almost drinks like a white Burgundy.” She credits the lees aging­—where the wine spends time aging with yeast cells—as contributing complexity and nuance. The wine is especially well-matched for seafood dishes. Leahy says the fruit complements the sweetness of the fish and mango pico de gallo in Three60’s grouper filet, while its round texture pairs well with the creamy spiny lobster pasta. The wine is the first foray for the family-owned Bodega Emilio Moro into Bierzo and working with the godello grape. The estate has deep roots in
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