La Bazenne on Fifth
474 Fifth Ave. S., Naples; 682-8623, labazenneonfifth. blogspot.com
Don’t be fooled by the casual street cafe exterior. This is a place for serious food. Ghana-born chef Andy Hyde cut his chops in the private club of LaPlaya before being brought on to head up this French restaurant and supper club (members have special perks). It’s a good sign of the changing times that a restaurant can open on Fifth Avenue with a garage door (albeit clear-paneled and sleek) enclosing a dining room bookended by chalkboard walls. Dinners like diver scallops with a pea purée, red pepper coulis and saffron foam can be ordered as both large and small plates, but we highly recommend “Le Zen Burger.” It’s one of the best we’ve tasted—thick, juices flowing, with soft Port Salut cheese, avocado slices, mixed greens and a “secret sauce.” We’re fine with our secret being out, as long as we don’t have to wait too long for a sidewalk table.
