Why LowBrow Pizza & Beer Is WAY Better Than It Sounds
For pizza aficionados—and people who appreciate anything gourmet—this snarky, irreverent, ultra-casual joint should be high on your food itinerary.
Dorothea Hunter Sönne
The tables at this glorified dive on the East Trail are mostly communal.
The general feel is frat house-meets-Revenge of the Nerds.
They don’t profess interest in anything beyond pizza and beer (P.S., that’s an understatement or lie—however you want to slice it—because their mozzarella-stuffed tater tots with a garlicky ranch dip are crazy-addictive, and they know their way around a smoker).
But stop by for a pie, and you’ll see why this is my latest obsession.
Let’s put it this way: I felt mildly out of place in my preppy stripes and Burberry flats against the backdrop of AC/DC paintings and hockey jerseys about to fall from the ceiling—but none of that mattered because the pizza rocked.
I would have had a good time alone just reading the menu (not to mention, our server was super-bubbly and as passionate about the blistering mozzarella and ricotta cheeses as a pizzaiolo from the real Napoli). I actually started guffawing when I got past a remarkable list of craft brews and took in the selection of “shitty beers that we’d still drink with pizza” (hey Bud Lite, cheers to you!), and I almost choked on my water seeing the “what the cluck?” dry-rubbed wings that come from “the fiery pit of hell” (that, folks, is also the nickname of their premium wood-burning oven; her real name is “Elle Belle”).
And the pies—oh, lordy, those pies—are worth a visit whether you’re clad in pajamas, work boots or a mink coat. Here’s what we had. The descriptions speak for themselves, and you can judge if this should be on your new pizza hit-list:
Maggie: A margherita. I liked the extra touch of flaky Parmesan shavings—not something you see every day.
Cortez the Killer: Ay caramba! My pizza boundaries expanded dramatically when I tried a carbonara pie at Marta in NYC, but they were pushed into outer space with this Mexican-inspired recipe featuring cotija cheese, chopped cilantro, spicy chorizo, charred corn and lime mayo.
Pepper-Bro-Ni: They had me at "house-smoked brisket and pepperoni," but I was fully sold on the red-sauce pie when I saw it had ricotta, garlic-marinated mushrooms and onion, to boot.
To plan a visit:
LowBrow Pizza & Beer
3148 Tamiami Trail E., Naples